A year ago, adventure
and outdoor photographer Daniel H. Bailey and his friend, Eric Parsons,
took off on a little summer trip.
Across the Himalayas.
Well, what would you expect an adventure photographer to do? Drive to
Disney World?
"I'm interested in the Himalayan regions," Dan says. "I'd been there
twice before, and knew a little about the area of Ladakh, which is an
autonomous Tibetan region in India. It's a Buddhist enclave in a Muslim
state of a Hindu country, so there's a real mix of cultures up there.
About two years ago I was on a photo assignment in Canada and met a man
who'd done the trip on a motorcycle. He told me he'd traveled along a
300-mile road that leads from the town of Manali into the heart of the
Ladakh region to the capitol city of Leh. Since Eric and I were looking
for a travel objective for next summer, this sounded like it might be
fun—only we'd do it on bicycles."
What made it especially challenging, and thus especially attractive to
Dan, was that the road from Manali to Leh, snaking over four mountain
passes at altitudes above 16,000 feet, was considered to be the highest
continuous road in the world. "One of the passes is 18,000 feet high,"
Dan says.
The first thing Dan and Eric did was get sponsorship help. "We got
bikes, custom made for us, from a Fort Collins, Colorado, company
called Black Sheep," Dan says. "The outdoor clothing manufacturer,
Patagonia, gave us some clothes. We got some other support, and we were
ready to go."
They flew to New Delhi, then took a 17-hour bus ride to Manali, the
last real town before the 300-mile trek to Leh. From there, it was
pedal power all the way.
"Manali is at 6,600 feet, and we climbed 34 miles uphill to the first
pass, which is at 13,000 feet. That was a two-day climb. From then on
we were at 10,000 feet and higher the whole time, and we slept mostly
at 14,000 feet or higher. The passes up there are usually 12 to 20
miles of switchbacks that climb long hills."
The weather, he says, "pretty much ran the gamut of mountain
weather—warm days and then the temperature drops off at night. We ran
into storms from time to time and freezing temperatures at the top of
the passes."
They carried a small tent, clothes, food, Dan's two cameras, extra
batteries and lots of film. The cameras were his "lightweight
expedition cameras"—an N90 and an FM2. He packed 80 rolls of film and
ended up shooting 47 of them.
"We carried two weeks' worth of backpacking food," Dan says, "but there
are tiny villages along the road and almost every day we'd see tent
camps and rest stops because there's a lot of truck traffic up there,
mostly military and supply vehicles. And there are tourists up there,
too. So we could have done it with a lot less food."
Most of the people they met spoke English, were friendly, helpful and
not at all surprised to see two Americans on bicycles making their way
across the mountains. "What did surprise them were the bicycle
trailers," Dan says. The Big Tow trailers, made by Yakima, a California
company specializing in "destination hardware," are essentially
one-wheel baskets that attach to the rear axle of the bicycles, and
they carried all the gear for the duo (you can see one of the trailers
in the first photo here). "I don't think the local people had seen them
before—they called them trolleys. And what also caught their attention
was that we'd replaced the trailers' safety flags with prayer flags."
Dan and Eric rode for ten days to get to Leh, then took a five-day trip
farther into the Nubra Valley through the highest pass in the
world—some 18,300 feet up—that actually has a road through it. "Then we
went back to Leh, took another side trip and eventually ended up back
in Manali after a month on the road."
Traveling by bike, Dan says, is the perfect way to see the world. "You
can stop and interact with people, go at your own pace, control your
own destiny and see things as you ride." The bikes performed
flawlessly. "We wore through a set of brake pads and had a couple of
flats, but that was it."
What they didn't carry was a cell phone, a laptop or a pager, though a
CD Walkman made the trip with them.
What's next for Dan? When we spoke, he was a few days away from heading
off to Alaska. "I'm going to do some alpine climbing in Denali National
Park."
Travels with Dan
You can see more of Dan's work at his website, www.danbaileyphoto.com.
You'll also find a section of the site devoted to the Himalayan bike
trip that features additional photos and selections from Dan's diary of
the adventure.