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Dan Bailey's Adventure Photography Blog

Exploring the World of Outdoor Photography with Tips, News, Imagery and Insight

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Tag Archives: exposure

The Most Important Exposure Decisions You Need to Make

Dan Bailey's Adventure Photography Blog Posted on September 8, 2020 by DanSeptember 8, 2020

In my two most recent video lessons on my YouTube Channel, I’ve talked about how to ensure proper exposure when using mirrorless cameras, and also how you can use aperture, shutter speed, ISO and the histogram to gain even more control in your process of trying to get the best exposure. 

In my latest lesson, I talk about about the most important decisions you’ll need to make into order for all of this to fall into place and get the best exposure for your scene. If settings like aperture, shutter speed and ISO are the ingredients, think of these decisions as your master recipe for getting a good shot. As good as modern cameras are, it’s these decisions that ultimately determine how your photos will look.

For as much information and detail that modern sensors can record, digital images still can’t match the tonal range that your eyes and brain can recognize out in the world. No camera can render accurate detail in both the extreme highlights and the darkest shadows at the same time. If there’s one thing you remember from this lesson, it should be that.

Of course, you can do this with HDR photography and by blending multiple exposures, but it doesn’t look quite real and our brains know that. That’s why a lot of HDR imagery has such a unique look. 

Due to the way that camera sensors record light, it’s technically better to overexpose your images. However, that doesn’t take into account what looks aesthetically better to us as viewers. We actually prefer it the other way around. We’re drawn much more to darker, more saturated colors over less saturated highlights.

So how do we get around these limitations and contradictions and shoot imagery that is both appealing to your viewers and that preserves enough visual information without blowing out with too much white?

Here’s the answer:

Expose for the most important bright subject matter

This is where your own creative decision making process enters the equation. Knowing that the camera won’t be able to record everything you see, you need to evaluate your scene and prioritize your subject matter in terms of overall importance and go by this all important guideline.

If there’s one exposure rule that you permanently burn into your mind and remember for the rest of your photography life, it should be this:

Your BRIGHTEST SUBJECT MATTER and your MOST IMPORTANT SUBJECT MATTER must be IN THE SAME LIGHT, or else you’ll have too much contrast.

Let’s say you’re shooting a scene that contains both bright, colorful skies and dark shadows. And let’s assume that your subject is moving in and out of the shadows. Maybe there’s some important subject matter in the darker areas of the frame that, ideally, you’d like to preserve.

In this kind of situation, if you were to expose for the highlights, your shadows will drop to black and any subject matter in those areas will completely indiscernible. However, If you expose for the shadows, your nice, rich blue sky will end up as a washed out field of white, which as I pointed out above, won’t look very good.

So…

In order to shoot the scene in such a way that lets you create the most dynamic, exciting image, you need to establish the hierarchy of subject matter in terms of visual/creative importance and do one of these four things:

1. Wait for different light

Wait until the shadows pass, or come back and shoot the scene during another time of day perhaps at sunset, or when the sun has shifted enough to illuminate your shadowed areas.

2. Wait for your subject to come out of the shadows

If your subject is moving, maybe you just need to wait a few seconds or minutes for them to pass through the shadows and come back into the sunlight. When they do, you’ll be able to capture the subject in the same light as the sky and preserve details in both.

3. Recompose and exclude the highlights

Instead of trying to show both, recompose your scene and exclude as much of the highlight detail as possible. This way you won’t have to worry about it washing out. Simply remove it from the equation. This could involve changing vantage points or zooming in with your lens.  

4. Let your shadows drop to black

Instead of trying to look into the shadows, let them drop to black. If there’s no way you can get your subject out of the shadows, then take a different approach and shoot the scene as a silhouette. This will preserve your bright sky, (this works very well with a dramatic sunset) and it will create a suggestion of your subject. 

With many scenes, you don’t actually need to show every single detail in the subject to tell the story. Sometimes the less you show, the more powerful your image will be. Silhouettes can make for very powerful compositions.

These four rules will allow you to better deal with high levels of contrast in your scene. Learn them. Remember then. Pull them out of your hat whenever you’re shooting in challenging light, and you’ll find that they’ll let you solve difficult contrast issues in a multitude of photography situations.

In the next post, I’ll bring it all together, and show you how to combine these decisions with your other exposure ingredients, so that you can effectively nail the look you want for your scene.

Posted in Creative Tips | Tagged Creative Tips, exposure, outdoor photography, photography, photography tips | Leave a reply

EXPOSURE TIPS: How to Use Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO and The Histogram

Dan Bailey's Adventure Photography Blog Posted on August 24, 2020 by DanAugust 24, 2020

Last week, I posted a video lesson on how to ensure proper exposure when shooting with mirrorless cameras. It’s actually a surprisingly easy method, and it will get you by in most situations, even when shooting in tricky and challenging light.

In that video, I share my exact exposure method when I’m shooting with my FUJIFILM mirrorless cameras, even when dealing with very tricky and challenging light. Note, these methods work for other types of mirrorless cameras as well, which make getting the right exposure a much easier process than when using DSLRs. (They also work when shooting in Live View mode with a DSLR)

>My second lesson in the series is called EXPOSURE TIPS: How to use. Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO and The Histogram. In this tutorial, I explain even further the exact method I use when espouse for my photos, and show you how to combine these fundamental exposure components into an efficient workflow when you’re shooting your own images on location. I also teach you a couple of important tips that can help you be even quicker with the camera.

Proper exposure is one of the most vital aspects in photography, so this is pretty important information. You may already know it, but it’s worth a refresher and to see how I handle tricky scenes with my own cameras.

Enjoy the video and let me know what you think by leaving a comment!

You can also read a blog post version of the entire two lessons combined here.

Posted in How To | Tagged Creative Tips, exposure, instruction, outdoor photography, photography, tutorial, video tutorials | Leave a reply

Exposure Basics for Shooting With Mirrorless Cameras

Dan Bailey's Adventure Photography Blog Posted on November 26, 2018 by DanAugust 24, 2020

I often get questions from readers and workshop students about how I exposure for my scenes.

Which exposure mode do I use, how often do I bracket, and in what increments? Which metering pattern do I prefer, center weighted, spot or multi segment? How do I handle challenging light? What should the histogram look like? Do I exposure for the right or the left?

Since proper exposure is such a vital part of photography, I thought I’d give you a quick primer on the exact exposure methods I use with my Fujifilm mirrorless cameras. Note, these techniques work with pretty much any kind of mirrorless camera.

I’ll start by saying that my technique looks a lot different than it used to, simply because mirrorless camera technology makes exposure a whole lot easier.

Compared to digital, color slide film had very narrow latitude, only about five stops, so you either nailed it, or else you threw the picture away. Anyone could get it right in easy light, but when the light got really tricky…

…Let’s just say that this is what separated the men from the boys. Your exposure chops were the most important skills you had as a photographer and serious shooters were forever chasing the dragon of being able to perfectly expose for every type of scene, no matter how challenging the light.

Oh, and I say “men” & “boys” because it’s us male people who tend to obsess about the technical aspects of photography, like how big our lenses are and how good we are at exposure. Women are perfectly capable of making a perfect exposure in tricky light, they usually don’t flap their wings so much when they nail it.

With DSLRs, things are kind of the same. Even though modern sensors have a much wider latitude than film, unless you shoot in Live View Mode, you still have no idea what the picture will look like until you actually shoot it and press the playback button. However Live View on most DSLRs doesn’t give full functionality and performance, especially with regards to autofocus.

Also, if you’re shooting fast breaking scenes, waiting to see if you nailed it might mean the difference between nailing the scene or missing it.

The Magic of Mirrorless

It’s a whole different world with mirrorless cameras. Real-time Live View with full performance and WYSIWYG viewfinders shows you what the picture will look like before you take it, simply because what you’re looking at on the screen is an exact view that’s being fed directly from the sensor.

It’s like magic. There is no surprise. No more “oops.”  No more blowing the shot because you underexposed when you should have overexposed, or because you used the wrong type of meter.

Even in the most challenging lighting situations imaginable, you can still see EXACTLY what your final image will look like. And that changes everything. 

With this in mind, here’s my basic exposure workflow:

  1. Turn on camera and set to Aperture Priority Mode.

  2. Point it at the scene.

  3. Look at the LCD or peer through the EVF.

  4. If I like what I see, I press the shutter button. 

  5. If it looks too dark, I turn the EV+/- Dial a few click up until I like what I see. Then I press the button.

  6. If it looks to bright, I turn the EV+/- Dial a few click the other way, until I like what I see. Then I press the button.

 

I’ll say it again: IF I LIKE WHAT I SEE, I PRESS THE BUTTON. 

It’s as simple as that. Most of the time, the camera gets it right, but if I want something different than what the camera is showing me, I simply turn the EV Dial until l get the look I want. Even if I’m using a different exposure mode, like Shutter Priority or Program.

In other words: The EV+/- Dial is your friend. 

Here’s an example:

The other day, I was riding in an airplane. I looked out the window and saw beautiful sunset light hitting the “winglet.” I grabbed my camera and pointed it out the window.

Hmmm… what should I do to ensure “proper exposure?” Set a spot meter and point it at the winglet? Or maybe at the brightest part of the sky. (That’s what we used to do.) Nah, that’s too much work.

I simply looked at the screen and decided that the current exposure at 0EV was a little to bright. The color on the winglet was a little bit washed out, so I turned the EV+/- Dial to -3 and pressed the button.

That’s all. I turned the EV dial until I liked what I saw. Then I pressed the button and immediately Tweeted it to Alaska Airlines as soon as we landed.

Here’s another example.

In the scene below, the camera told me that “The right exposure” was one thing, but I wanted a slightly darker background and more contrast, so I turned the EV+/- Dial to -7 and took the second photo.

What About Shutter Speed and Aperture?

Ok, now we’re getting a little more complicated. But not really.

For some picture situations, you’ll want a high or low shutter speed in order to freeze or blur the motion. Other times, you might want a wide or narrow aperture in order to get a shallow or wide depth of field.

In Aperture Priority mode, you can control both of those parameters by simply turning the Aperture control until you see either the shutter speed you want or the f/stop you want. The camera will compensate by changing the shutter speed, which you can see right in the display.

So, for most scenes, I simply point the camera and think about how I want my scene to look. Sharp? Blurry? Lots of stuff in focus? Only one thing in focus? Once I figure that out, I turn the Aperture ring until I see either the shutter speed or f/stop that will create that effect.

For the first picture below, I wanted a fast shutter speed. I set my aperture to f/2.8, which got me a speed of 1/640 sec. For the second picture, I wanted blurry water, so I set my aperture to f/16, which gave me a shutter speed of 3 seconds.

What about ISO?

If my current ISO setting won’t give me either the f/stop or shutter speed I want, I simply adjust the ISO. (You could use Auto ISO, but I prefer to change it manually.)

Here I was photographing crows early in the morning when the light was dim. I was using the new Fuji XF200mm f/2, which meant I needed a high shutter speed in order to get a sharp photo of a flying bird. I cranked the ISO up to 1600, which gave me a high enough shutter speed.

It’s a simple as that. Need the speed? Crank up the ISO dial.

What about Manual Exposure Mode?

Manual exposure mode works pretty much the same way, only you have to control everything. You adjust the shutter speed, aperture control and ISO, and watch what happens in the viewfinder. As you adjust those controls, you’ll be able to see the picture get brighter or darker.

When you get your desired shutter speed or f/stop, and you like what you see on the screen, press the button.

Simple as that.

If your picture is too light or dark, adjust SS, f/ or ISO until you get the look you want. Then press the button.

What about The Histogram?

The Histogram is a graph of all the tones in your image. Without going into too much detail, (you can read a great post on histograms here), the basic rule is that you don’t want to have a giant spike on either side, because that means that either your highlights or your shadows will be “blown-out.”

Sometimes it’s ok to blow out your shadows, because shadows are your best friend in photography. Blown highlights don’t usually look as good in photos.

You also don’t want to have a huge gap on the right side of the histogram. Due to the way that digital sensors capture light, there’s more tonal information in the brightest tones than in the darker tones. This means you have more latitude for processing your photos if they’re generally brighter than if they’re darker.

If you try to brighten the really dark tones in your photo processing software, you’ll end up with more noise than if you adjust the brighter tones.

You can display a histogram right in your LCD/EVF. (Depending on the model, you can show a simple histogram or a 3-color RBG histogram. Either is fine.) This can help you with your exposures. Why?

Because you can’t always trust your LCD. Sometimes it can can fool you. Not all cameras have the same quality viewfinder, and not all screens are calibrated the same with 100% accuracy. Also, the LCD can look different in excessively bright or dark light.

I usually trust the LCD on my Fujis, but I’ve seen some cameras where the LCD is not very accurate. You’ll generally find this to be true with cheaper cameras.

It’s very simple to incorporate this tool into your shooting method. When you’re doing the “Exposure Workflow” I outlined above, just keep an eye on your histogram and make sure there aren’t any huge spikes or gaps at either end. If there are, simply adjust the EV+/- Dial or our camera controls until it looks ok.

Ideally, you want a nice, even bell curve that extends all the way across, but doesn’t jump over either side. When in doubt, you should aim for a brighter image than a darker image. However the exact shape will very depending on what you’re shooting.

If you’re photographing predominantly light or dark subject matter, or subject with very high or very low levels of contrast, your histogram won’t look like a nice bell and it may even have some gaps the edges. You may even have some spikes.

Sometimes spikes and gaps are unavoidable, especially if you’re shooting high contrast subjects. Again, you just don’t want too much stuff blowing over the edges.

Imagine how different the histograms would look like for these three photos below.

Being a great photographer still requires a high level of proficiency and experience with your camera. It takes knowing which settings to change, being able to adjust them quickly in real-time, anticipating your scenes and knowing how to translate your creative vision into a final photograph.

Years of practice.

However, the basics of getting a good exposure are relatively simple when using mirrorless cameras. Don’t make it harder than it needs to be. Look at the screen/viewfinder and if it doesn’t look right, make an EV adjustments as needed. When you like what you see on the screen, press the button. It’s that easy.

Posted in Creative Tips, Digital Imaging Tips | Tagged camera gear, digital imaging, exposure, mirrorless, outdoor photography, photography, photography tips | 6 Replies

Don’t Be Afraid To Push Your Histograms To The Edge

Dan Bailey's Adventure Photography Blog Posted on July 6, 2012 by DanJuly 8, 2012

Neat and clean. Perfect. Balanced. Evenly distributed. Whatever. That’s boring. If your mission with photography is to create dynamic photos that shout, sing and yell, then you’ve got to break out of your box and go for bang, not whisper. … Continue reading →

Posted in Creative Tips | Tagged Creative Tips, creativity, digital imaging, exposure, histograms, landscapes, mountains, outdoor photography, photography | 4 Replies

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YouTube Video UCMJFgbkSR_jqohmOksHc6Fw_ih4e9J-uwls Today’s photography tip is a Photography Public Service Announcement to make sure you’re starting your year off on the right creative foot and not getting too wrapped up in things that ultimately don’t make your photography any better.

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Today’s photography tip is a Photography Public Service Announcement to make sure you’re starting your year off on the right creative foot and not getting too wrapped up in things that ultimately don’t make your photography any better.

Check out my eBook, BEHIND THE LANDSCAPE and use discount code BEHIND20 to save 20% on the title. https://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/product/behind-the-landscape-ebook/

Visit me on

Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/danbaileyphoto
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/danbaileyphoto/
Twitter: https://www.twitter.com/danbaileyphoto/
Website: https://danbaileyphoto.com
Blog: https://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/
Photography Public Service Announcement: Don't Fall Into This Trap With Your Image Making!
YouTube Video UCMJFgbkSR_jqohmOksHc6Fw_ih4e9J-uwls
We can all use a little coziness at the end of this topsy-turvy year of 2020. Here's a fun, original rock and roll holiday song to match the mood! Wishing everyone a happy and safe holiday season as we put this year to bed and look forward to 2021!

Listen on Soundcloud here: https://soundcloud.com/dan-bailey-ak/cozy-christmas
Listen or download my entire Christmas EP on Bandcamp: https://danbaileyak.bandcamp.com/releases

Dan Bailey Photo: https://danbaileyphoto.com
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Video shot with following equipment:

Fujifilm X-T3 camera - https://bhpho.to/2OtBndb
Fujifilm VG-XT3 Vertical Battery Grip: https://bhpho.to/2ITMMoc
Fujifilm XF 35mm f/2 WR lens - https://bhpho.to/2nGqQQ1
Nanlite LumiPad LED Panel: https://bhpho.to/3eynhoe
Ikan Delta 7" On-Camera HDMI Monitor: https://bhpho.to/2NmHgN5
3 Legged Thing Punks Series Billy Carbon Fiber Tripod: https://bhpho.to/31QaoiV
Acratech GXP Ball Head: https://bhpho.to/2yxKt5G
Elgato Green Screen: https://amzn.to/2VI5u5w
Fender electric guitars: https://www.fender.com

----------------

Lyrics: 

Christmas this year looks a whole lot different
'cause we all gotta be a little socially distant
Can't go shopping, can't get on a plane
I miss my family, it just don't seem the same
I'm stuck at home with the one I love
It's been the way for the past nine months
Just you and me, this year we're laying low
Watching holiday reruns of our favorite shows

We'll make some new traditions and call 'em our own
dance beneath he mistletoe
this year we'll have a very very cozy Christmas.

We'll hang our stockings by the chimney with care
Get a little tree and put it right over there
Santa will know just where to put our stuff
But as long as you're here I don't need very much 
Our scaled down Christmas will be better than fine
Cause we have each other and our favorite wine
They'll be love all around and lots of new toys
This small celebration will be full of joy!

We'll make some new traditions, call 'em our own
Dancing beneath he mistletoe
You and I will have a very very cozy Christmas

No holiday parties, and nowhere to go
At least we've got plenty of snow
Some fresh cut logs in burning in the stove
And Brian Setzer Christmas on the radio!

We'll make some new traditions, call 'em our own
Dancing beneath the mistletoe
You and I will have a very very cozy Christmas

Playing outside when it's 20 below
Drinking hot cocoa decorating our home
This year will have a very very cozy Christmas
"A Very Cozy Christmas" Music Video
YouTube Video UCMJFgbkSR_jqohmOksHc6Fw_zf8xUpiH2PM
In this video I take you behind the scenes for one of my favorite images and share the approach, gear and creative craft, and the story that went into bring this image to life. 

Check out my eBook, BEHIND THE LANDSCAPE and use discount code BEHIND20 to save 20% on the title. https://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/product/behind-the-landscape-ebook/

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How I Got The Shot - "Glowing Iceberg." The Story Behind The Image
YouTube Video VVVNSkZnYmtTUl9qcW9obU9rc0hjNkZ3LllvNm1WMlo4VmJR
In this two part lesson, I show you the basics of how to use Photo Mechanic Software. Part 2 covers how to copy, save, move, manage, export and upload your photos, how to add watermarks, and how to open your photos in an external editing program, like Luminar or Capture One.

You can download Photo Mechanic to demo and/or purchase the program here:
https://home.camerabits.com

View the full Photo Mechanic online user manual here:
http://wiki.camerabits.com/en/index.php?title=User_Manual_Flat_View


Visit me on

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Photo Mechanic Basic Tutorial Part 2 - Copying, Saving, Uploading Images, & Using an External Editor
YouTube Video VVVNSkZnYmtTUl9qcW9obU9rc0hjNkZ3LkpYdlpucUdkcC0w
In this two part lesson, I show you the basics of how to use Photo Mechanic Software. Part 1 will cover how to import (ingest) your images, browsing, sorting, rating and tagging images, and how to add captions, keywords and other metadata. 

You can download Photo Mechanic to demo and/or purchase the program here:
https://home.camerabits.com

View the full Photo Mechanic online user manual here:
http://wiki.camerabits.com/en/index.php?title=User_Manual_Flat_View


Visit me on

Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/danbaileyphoto
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Photo Mechanic Basic Tutorial Part 1 - Importing, Browsing, Sorting, Adding Captions & Keywords,
YouTube Video VVVNSkZnYmtTUl9qcW9obU9rc0hjNkZ3LlUwMXFMOHJiVlM0
Photo Mechanic Plus software offers a complete catalog/image database solution and photo management system for photographers. Photo Mechanic has long been the center of my own photography workflow, and I highly recommend the program to any and every photographer. It offers incredibly fast image browsing and comprehensive search, filter, catalog and management tools that will help speed up your photography life. 

Here is my review of the Photo Mechanic Plus: https://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/new-photo-mechanic-plus-offers-full-catalog-functionality/

You can visit the Camera Bits Website to see more information about Photo Mechanic and Photo Mechanic Plus: https://home.camerabits.com
A Look at Photo Mechanic Plus: An Excellent Image Catalog and Photo Management Software Solution
YouTube Video VVVNSkZnYmtTUl9qcW9obU9rc0hjNkZ3LlVGZ3hsUXV6UjBv
The XF90mm f/2 is an incredible and highly versatile, fast prime lens that offers excellent image quality and razor sharp imagery in a relatively compact design. It gives you that classic telephoto look without the size and weight of a big lens. Here's a look at some of the reasons I love this lens and photo examples to show you how you can use it in your photography.

Check out my bestselling e-guide to the Fujifilm X Series cameras, X SERIES UNLIMITED: https://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/master-your-fujifilm-camera-with-my-x-series-unlimited-ebook/

Read my full review of the FUJIFILM XF90mm lens here:
https://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/full-review-of-the-fuji-xf-90mm-f2-wr-lens/

Purchase the Fujifilm XF50mm f/2 WR Lens with the current $150 rebate savings:
B&H Photo: https://bhpho.to/3iTbH8V
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Why I Love This Lens - FUJIFILM XF90mm f/2 WR
YouTube Video VVVNSkZnYmtTUl9qcW9obU9rc0hjNkZ3LllEUDFYcXNNaXNz
More photography tips and the 3rd lesson in my "Exposure" series. In this video, I give you what I feel is the most important exposure rule to follow and explain the most cruicial factors you need to consider in order to achieve the best possible exposure for your scene. These are expert tips that will allow you to deal with challenging light and capture your scenes with skill and confidence.

Check out my Photography On The Brain lesson series here: https://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/photography-on-the-brain-video-mentorship-series/

Check out my bestselling photography eBooks here: https://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/product-category/ebooks/

Visit me on:

Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/danbaileyphoto
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/danbaileyphoto/
Twitter: https://www.twitter.com/danbaileyphoto/
Website: https://danbaileyphoto.com
Blog: https://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/
The #1 Most Important Exposure Rule You Should Follow, and How You Can Apply it in Your Photography
YouTube Video VVVNSkZnYmtTUl9qcW9obU9rc0hjNkZ3LlRUa2lqUlI2cFI0
In this short film, I take you along with me during a summer hike out to an Alaskan glacier and give you a virtual adventure tour of this wild place. Set to original music.

The Lake George Glacier is one of large ice fields in the Chugach Mountains of Alaska. I've explored this area a number of times over the years, and it's always an amazing sight to behold. During this summer's visit, I was struck at how much the glacier has receded in a very short time frame. Three years ago, I was able to walk right out on the ice, but now, the edge of the ice lies hundreds of feet away from the surrounding hillsides and it's much lower in elevation.

Check out this blog post to see the dramatic difference in the ice levels compared to a few years ago: https://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/hiking-on-the-lake-george-glacier-alaska/

Most of the footage in this video was shot with the FUJIFILM X-T3 camera - https://bhpho.to/2OtBndb and the FUJFILM X100V - https://tinyurl.com/y3wvzf76. Read my full review of the X100V here: https://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/first-look-at-the-brand-new-fujifilm-x100v/

The original music in this video was recorded in Logic Pro X and the guitar solo as played on my sunburst Les Paul through IK Multimedia Amplitube software.

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Lake George Glacier Hike - Virtual Tour of an Alaska Ice Field.
YouTube Video VVVNSkZnYmtTUl9qcW9obU9rc0hjNkZ3LmVXMHRjcm5JajJj
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danbaileyphoto

So, this is a little different... Today, I release So, this is a little different... Today, I released, what is essentially my debut album. I also started a music blog to chronicle and share my own geeky ideas about music and guitar, since those things are such enormously important parts of my life. I’ve been a guitar player for longer than I’ve been a photographer, and I studied music recording and production at @berkleecollege of music. And, with the crazy year we’ve had, I’ve decided that my life is too short to not try and make as much music as I can going forward. 

My brand new album, “Seven Years” is a collection of newly remastered guitar oriented instrumentals I recorded between 2000-2007. Those seven years represent the evolution, and the beginnings of my experiments and learning experience with songwriting and digital recording. You can listen and read my music blog in my profile link.
Those sweeping views of the mountains is what’s Those sweeping views of the mountains is what’s sometimes needed to help calm the sound from that while ails us. #choosemountains #optoutside #neverstopexploring #fujifilmx_us #awesome_earthpix
There’s a lot of stuff out there in the world to There’s a lot of stuff out there in the world to photograph, and some of it is pretty fleeting. I feel pretty lucky, I’m or fortunate, or blessed, or whatever it is when I’m able to line up a scene like this in my viewfinder, let alone witness it with my own eyes. #landscapelovers #choosemountains #fujifilm_xseries
Yesterday’s flight was a wonderful and cathartic Yesterday’s flight was a wonderful and cathartic way to begin the new year. I hardly flew in 2020, so I’m looking forward to getting my rhythm back and spending more time chasing good light in my little Cessna. This was shot with the #Fujifilm #X100V using the awesome Classic Neg. film simulation. Falling love with this camera/color combo was one of the good parts of 2020. @fujifilmx_us #mountainlife #aviationlovers
Not a bad start to 2021! So far, so good. I look f Not a bad start to 2021! So far, so good. I look forward to more good days ahead as we slowly crawl back into the light. Happy New Year, everyone! #getoutdoors #choosemountains #Alaska @fujifilmx_us
At precisely 12:12pm EST on 12/12/20, it was still At precisely 12:12pm EST on 12/12/20, it was still dark as night here in #Alaska. With jammies still on underneath my pants, I stepped out onto my front porch to capture a few photos of our little string of half-buried string of holiday lights! #fujifilm1212 @fujifilmx_us #x100v #fujifilm_xseries #fujix100v #myfujifilmlegacy #createeveryday #creativity #photographyislife
Woke up to new snow falling from the sky this morn Woke up to new snow falling from the sky this morning, so when it finally got light enough outside, I tromped around with the camera in my backyard and shot some photos of our Japanese maple. Made this with the new @7artisansofficial 60mm f2.8 macro lens. #natureshots #alaska #winterwonderland #fujifilm_xseries #earthfocus #fujifilmx_us #7artisans60mmf28
Cook Inlet sunset. Cook Inlet sunset.
Nothing beats the great light and yummy sherbet co Nothing beats the great light and yummy sherbet colors of late fall in the Chugach. #Alaska #earthfocus #fujifilm #fujifilm_xseries #thegreatoutdoors
Looking back to one of my most memorable images, s Looking back to one of my most memorable images, shot during a brisk autumn evening a few years ago while airplane camping all by myself out at the Knik Glacier. This glowing iceberg photo is the subject of my latest video tutorial, where I take you behind the scenes and share the specific approach, gear, techniques and story behind the image. You can watch the video on my YouTube channel. Link in profile. #landscapephotographer #fujifilm_xseries #adventureawaits #neverstopexploring #alaska #earthpix @fujifilmx_us @fujifilm.focus
Rainbow Peak, donning its lightweight fall blanket Rainbow Peak, donning its lightweight fall blanket of snow and getting ready for colder weather ahead. #fujifilm_xseries #landscapephotomag #choosemountains #alaska #greatnorthcollective #mountainlovers
Fall doesn’t always last very long here in Alask Fall doesn’t always last very long here in Alaska, but we’ve been lucky to have a beautiful display of autumn colors this year and no huge wind storms to blow it all away. #myfujifilmlegacy #myfujilove #x100v #landscapephotography #naturephotos #autumncolors
The most memorable evenings I’ve had in a long t The most memorable evenings I’ve had in a long time. #cessna #sunsetlovers #natgeo #fujifilm_xseries
Certain landscapes bathed in magical light really Certain landscapes bathed in magical light really put my imagination in overdrive. The Knik glacier from this viewpoint has such a powerful impact on my drive for creativity and exploration; especially in early fall as the earlier sunsets light up the peaks above this magnificent river of ice. #Alaska #glacier #myfujifilmlegacy #myfujilove #landscapephotography
A random glimpse of sunshine on a cool and cloudy A random glimpse of sunshine on a cool and cloudy evening in the Chugach. #alaskalife #landscapephotography #fujifilm_xseries
The last days of another amazing Alaskan summer. # The last days of another amazing Alaskan summer. #fujifilm_xseries #Alaska #landscapephotography
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