Dan Bailey's Adventure Photography BlogPosted on by Dan
The May 2018 firmware updates added the new Focus Bracketing feature to the Fujifilm X-T2 (which is currently $500 off) and X-H1. First introduced in the GFX earlier this year, and [now included in the X-T3 and X-T30], Focus Bracketing has been one of the most talked about and alas, one of the most confusing features since it was released into the two top shelf X Series models.
I’ve gotten quite a few emails from readers asking how it works. I finally had a chance to try it out myself, so in this post, I’ll give you the basic rundown on how the Fuji’s Focus Bracketing feature actually works and how to put it to practical use in your own photography.
First, a little background. Focus Stacking, is often used in closeup and macro photography, when you’re already dealing with extremely shallow depths of field. That said, you can get great results when shooting traditional landscapes at more “regular distances.” Either way, the technique involves creating a series of photos shot at slightly different focus distances, then combining, or stacking them in Photoshop or Lightroom.
All of the extremely narrow focus slices are added together, which results in an final image that a much wider depth of field than you’d normally be able to get with a single frame. The restyle can be pretty dramatic. Even if you don’t have an X-T2, X-H1 or GFX, you can still do Focus Stacking, you just need to put your camera on a tripod and perform your focus adjustments manually.
Step 1: Set Up The Focus Bracketing Menu
The new Focus Bracketing menu lives inside the Bracketing Menu. The easiest way to get there is to set the DRIVE DIAL to BKT and press the Fn Button that’s tied to your DRIVE SETTINGS. On both the X-T2 and X-H1, the default setting has the front Fn button assigned to DRIVE, although you can change this to any Fn button if you like. Otherwise, you can access DRIVE SETTINGS at the top of the SHOOTING SETTINGS MENU.
Once you bring up your DRIVE SETTINGS menu, the first step is to go to BKT SETTING —> BKT SELECT —> and choose FOCUS BKT at the bottom of the menu. This is actually the most important step; you need to select which kind of BKT you’ll be doing. It’s easy to miss this step.
Once you choose FOCUS BKT, hit OK and you’ll be taken to the FOCUS BKT SETTINGS page. Here you choose the number of frames you’ll shoot, your STEP, which corresponds to the difference in focus distance for each shot, and your INTERVAL, which is how many seconds between each frame.
For FRAMES, I’ve experimented with anywhere between 10-60. For the example above, I had it set to capture 50 frames. If you have very shallow subject matter, you can easily get by with less. If you’re trying to show an extremely wide range of focus, you might want to choose a higher number of frames. The max setting is 999 frames. I can’t imagine how long it would take to load 999 images into Photoshop.
With regards to the STEP setting, 1 is the smallest focus distance difference between frames, from front to back, and 10 is the highest. It’s not an exact number, though. Fujifilm hasn’t provided any specifics on how far this is, so you’ll have to experiment and see what works for you. In my own tests, I’ve tried 3, 5 and 10, and I’ve found that 10 seems to work pretty well. For extreme macro, you may want to use a smaller number.
For INTERVAL, I just use 0 and let the camera fire the entire series in quick succession.
The nice thing is that once you’ve set up your Focus Bracketing preferences, and as long as the DRIVE dial is set to BKT, you don’t have to go through all the other steps again. The next time you hit the DRIVE button, you’ll be taken right to the FOCUS BKT SETTINGS Page. Unless, of course, you choose a different type of bracketing.
Step 2: Take Your Shots
Once you have your BKT SETTINGS all configured the way you want them, it’s time to shoot your series. You’ll probably want to use a tripod, and you probably want to get as close as possible with your lens. You can use any lens, but for super close macro, I recommend using a dedicated macro lens like the XF80mm f/2 Macro lens, or XF60mm Macro lens. This will give you the best edge to edge sharpness.
Another alternative is to use one of the Fuji MCEX extension tubes. I use the MCEX-11 with a variety of lenses. The general rule is that the wider the lens, the closer you can get, which means the more shallow your depth of field will be.
For this “Red Lettuce” image, I used the MCEX-11 in conjunction with the XF35mm f/2 lens. One of my favorite lenses for macro with the MCEX tube is the XF23mm f1.4, although I’ve used quite a few of my lenses with the MCEX, including the XF100-400. The nice thing about using long lenses, is that you have an easier working distance and increased DOF.
The technique for shooting is to set your focus on the closest part of the image you want to be sharp. For this example, I started with the very front edge of the lettuce leaf, which you can see in the shot above.
You can either focus manually or use autofocus to set your focus point. If you’re using AF, I recommend using Single AF and setting the green focus box to a relatively small point for the most accuracy. If you’re focusing manually, you’ll want to use FOCUS CHECK so you can zoom in and make sure you’re hitting the right spot. After you’ve got your focus nailed, you can go ahead and press the shutter. The camera will shoot the number of frames in the interval you specified.
When shooting macro, I usually set the camera to ELECTRONIC SHUTTER. This helps prevent any camera shake that may occur from the shutter slamming up and down inside the body. With the ES, there are no moving components during capture, it’s just individual pixels turning on and off.
The last thing to do be fore you hit the shutter is to pray that the wind doesn’t blow during your series. This is easily the most frustrating thing about shooting macro. It’s nearly impossible to shoot closeups if there’s even a slight breeze.
Step 3: Stack Your Frames
Once you’ve got all your shots, it’s time to combine them into a single image. The most common way is to select all of the frames you want to use and open them in Photoshop. (If you don’t use Photoshop, there are other programs that do Focus Stacking, including Affinity Photo, HeliconSoft, Zerene Stacker
Once they’re loaded, you need to set it up so that each frame is a separate layer. Go to FILE —> SCRIPTS —> Load Files into Stack… If you’re opening from Lightroom, you can bypass this by selecting all your images in LR, then doing EDIT —> Open as Layers in Photoshop…
Once they’re all loaded, you’ll have a single, multi-layered image. Now, you choose EDIT —> Auto Align Layers… This step automatically adjusts all your frames so that they match with each other, in case there are slight differences between frames. Like if the a slight breeze blew while you were right in the middle of shooting. That happened with my example, and it turned out OK.
Next step is to do EDIT —> Auto-Blend Layers…, making sure you have the “Stack Images” box is checked. Hit OK and wait for it to finish.
As with the above, step, it can take a few minutes if you’re running a lot of images.
When it’s done rendering, you’ll have your stacked image, with all the focus layers combined. Chances are, it will look pretty cool.
You may need to do a slight crop to clean up the edges from when it auto-aligned. After that, you can save or export your final, finished, stacked image.
Finished, Stacked Image!
Here’s another example below. This was shot with the XF100-400mm lens and MCEX-11. It was made from 60 frames, set at STEP of 10 and INTERVAL of 0, using a 2-second self timer and the Electronic Shutter. Fist, three random images from my series, showing some of the different focus points used, and then the fourth, final stacked image.
Once you get the hang of it, Focus Stacking is pretty easy to do. The new Focus Bracketing feature on the two high end Fuji’s makes it even easier. You probably won’t use it all the time, but it can be a fun technique that opens up a whole new world of photography for you. I guarantee, once you open this box, you’ll start scanning your world for potential macro scenes. You might start seeing your subject matter in a whole new way!
Dan Bailey's Adventure Photography BlogPosted on by Dan
Last Thursday, Fuijfilm announced the new X-H1, which is the first X Series camera to features in-body image stabilization, commonly referred to as IBIS. Using a combination of accelerometers, 3-axis gyro sensors and a special dual-processor, the X-H1 can analyze and correct for camera motion at up to 10,000 calculations per second and add up to 5.5 stops of stabilization.
This can be combined with the OIS stabilization found on some of the Fujifilm lenses for even greater stability when shooting in a wide variety of situations, whether you’re shooing hand held, from a moving vehicle (what about a Cessna?) or a tripod.
As recent as one year ago, Fuji reps and spokespeople had been holding to the line that adding IBIS to an X Series camera would necessitate a bigger sensor and larger lens mount. Obviously the Fuji engineers solved this problem without changing either of these things; it still has a 24MP X-Trans APS-C sensor and the regular Fuji X Mount.
High End Video
The other big thing about the X-H1 is that it has greatly enhanced video capabilities. In fact, the X-H1 was specifically designed to function as a high-end video professional camera and compete in that market.
With its larger heat sink, the X-H1 can shoot 4K video at up to 200Mbps (twice as high a bit rate as the X-T2) at a duration of 1.5x longer than the X-T2; 15 minutes per battery. Add the new X-H1 Vertical Booster Grip and you can triple that time.
It also features two new aspect ratios: 3840 x 2160 UHD (Ultra Hi Def) and 4096 x 2160 Cinema 4K (DCI 4K), and supports high speed video recording at 120p. It also featuress a brand new film simulation.
ETERNA was Fujifilm’s professional motion picture film stock and it has been reproduced inside the X-H1. With cinematic color rendition, lower saturation and a very high dynamic range, ETERNA is designed to give you that “classic movie look” right out of the box, and it lends itself extremely well to color grading.
It’s interesting to note that back in 1934, motion picture film was the first product that Fuji ever created. As with the other film sims, ETERNA carries a rich legacy.
Photographers who go back and forth between shooting stills and motion will like the fact that the X-H1’s video menu contains many of the same settings you’ll find in the IMAGE QUALITY menu, like HIGHLIGHT and SHADOW TONE, AF-C Custom Settings, and DYNAMIC RANGE. This allows you to designate separate settings for still shooting and video.
Add the option for F-LOG, uncompressed output, Flicker Control, silent video operation, a variety of slow-motion video speeds and a Fn button option that lets you instantly switch to slow motion, and the two new new super-high end X-Mount Cine lenses they also announced the X-H1 allows for whole new world of video quality and creativity when telling your stories. And it even fits housings and mounts that are specifically designed for the Panasonic G5.
Beefed-up Body Design
The X-H1 is built to be a professional grade camera in every way, and it features a scratch and ding resistant magnesium alloy chassis that’s 25% thicker than the body on the X-T2. The lens mount has been redesigned to make it more shock-resistant without adding extra bulk.
This does make the X-H1 a bigger, heavier camera than the X-T2. It also features a larger grip and top-deck LCD panel that’s similar to what you see on the GFX.
The body design and layout will surely feel familiar to users who are coming from DSLRs, but it’s still an X Series camera at heart; it features the four thumb-pad buttons, the touch screen “swipe gestures” used on the X-E3 and a combination of Fn buttons and swipes that add up to a total of 13 Function controls.
Fuji shooters will instantly notice that the X-H1 is missing the EV+/- dial. It’s been replaced by the top-deck LCD. EV control is now performed via a Fn button and the rear command dial. There is a dedicated “+/-” button, but this is just another Fn button and you can assign EV control to any Fn button and you can assign any Fn control to the “+/-” button.
The X-H1 also has a DSLR-style shutter button. It has a larger surface area and an extremely high touch, although it ins’t compatible with mechanical cable releases.
Upgraded Performance
The X-H1 has been tweaked for maximum performance. It features a very large 3.69 million pixel EVF that’s bigger and brighter than the EVF on the X-T2. It also has highly updated autofocus algorithms which allow it to track fast moving subjects with even more precision an accuracy.
This makes even more capable for shooting extremely fast action like motorsports and extreme athletes, and also difficult or erratically moving subjects like flying birds. Combine this with the rumoured 200mm f/2 lens that’s in the pipeline and you’ve got an extremely capable setup.
In fact, that’s exactly how I see this camera. For years now, there have been a lot of photographers who are attracted to the Fuji system and the X Series, but for whatever reason, they just can’t pull the trigger because the system has been lacking a few things that companies like Sony and Canon have on their cameras.
With the X-H1, the X Series now has in-body stabilization, a beefier DSRL-style chassis, even faster autofocus and even more high-end video capabilities, and yet it still has the X Series mojo and all the regular X Series features.
So, Fuji has effectively checked off a few more boxes and given those people who are on the edge even more reasons to consider switching to the Fuji system. And while it’s kind of sad that Fuji has to continually chase companies like Sony, that’s the reality of the modern technology world.
Yes, the X-H1 is bigger, heavier and at $1,899, it’s more expensive than something like the X-T2, but it’s a pretty bad ass camera. Although technically an X Series camera, in terms of design, it’s actually quite similar to the GFX, although not quite as big. In a way, the X-H1 sort of straddles the two systems.
That said, it has the exact same sensor and image processor as the X-T2, X-Pro2, X-E3, X-T20 and X100F, so in terms of color and image quality, it should give the same level of performance as all the otters recent X Series cameras. Don’t rush out and order one if all you’re craving is better image quality, unless it results from a requirement of additional stabilization.
The X-H1 is not for everyone, and Fujifilm knows this. They don’t expect everyone to buy one. I don’t see a ton of X Series users trading up. However, for pro Fuji users who are serious about shooting video or who demand the highest level of performance and rugged durability from their cameras, and DSLR shooters who are on the cusp of moving to the X Series, the X-H1 looks pretty darn appealing.
For X Series users who do trade up, it will be a seamless transition. The X-H1 is still an X Series camera through and through, so it has all the settings, functions and creative tools you’ve grown to love, just in a more high performance model.
By the way, that’s exactly what the “H” stands for: High Performance.
And of course, all the features I talk about in my comprehensive X SERIES UNLIMITED eBook will apply to the new X-H1, so if you’re new to the system, I highly recommend checking out the guide.
Dan Bailey's Adventure Photography BlogPosted on by Dan
In just a few short years, Fujifilm has built an impressive camera system from the ground up. Starting with the introduction of the X100, which they launched in September 2010, they’ve since expanded their lineup to include a number of highly advanced interchangeable and fixed lens compact cameras that have completely stirred up the photography world.
Shooters of all styles and levels have fallen in love with their compact, classic body styling and with the remarkable image quality that these cameras produce. So much so that an increasing number of amateurs and pros alike have replaced their entire DSLR rigs with Fuji X camera systems and haven’t looked back. I’m one of those people.
Even straight JPEGS from these cameras look awesome, which has prompted many people to rethink their RAW-only shooting style. The images are incredibly sharp and combined with Fuji’s image processing technology, color reproduction is stunning. The built-in film simulations and different shooting modes offer wide creativity and the resolution of the APS-C X-Trans sensor which is found on most of the models is certainly good enough for any pro work.
Here’s a quick comparison between all of the current Fuji X cameras in the lineup to see which one is right for you. (Updated August 2018)
1. Fujifilm X-H1
The new Fujifilm X-H1 is the latest X Series camera. Featuring an even more rugged all-metal body and a brand new 5-axis, 5.5 stop stabilized sensor, this is the first model in the lineup to have In-Body Image Stabilization.
Built to be an all-professional camera in every way, the X-H1 has a larger pronounced grip, a 25% thicker chassis, and the same 24MP X-Trans sensor found in all the other X Series cameras.
In addition, the X-H1 has been designed as a high-end video camera. It offers DCI-4K shooting at 200 Mb/s, which is double the bit rat of the X-T2, and it shoots beautiful slow motion in Full HD at up to 120 fps. It also features F-log recording right to the SD card, separate camera settings for shooting stills and video, and it has the brand new cinematic ETERNA film simulation.
Using the same 325-piont AF system found on the X-T2, the X-H1 has upgraded AF algorithms, which allow for even better AF tracking when using AF-C mode. It also has the highest resolution electronic viewfinder of any X Series camera, with a full-time refresh rate of 100 fps.
The biggest design difference on the X-H1 is that instead of the EV +/- dial, the camera has a new top deck LCD. It’s very similar to the layout of the GFX. With a total of 13 Fn buttons/controls and the optical Vertical Power Booster Grip, the X-H1 is a true powerhouse, and with it’s familiar look and feel, it should appeal to DSLR users who have been X curious for awhile, but have been waiting to pull the trigger.
Earlier this summer, Fujifilm announced the X-T2. Featuring the new 24MP X-Trans III sensor and a much more powerful image processor, the X-T2 has been refined for maximum performance in every way, and it produces incredible high resolution imagery.
With a body design that’s almost identical to the X-T1, the “2” features a few tweaks, like dials that lock and unlock, and a new +/- EV control that lets you adjust by up to 5 stops. The camera also has the new AF joystick
Inside, the X-T2 has a brand new, vastly upgraded, 325-point AF system that will track moving subjects at up to 8 frames per second, and with the optional battery grip in “Boost” mode, the camera will shoot and track at 11 frames per second.
In addition, the X-T2’s new processor allows for improved color accuracy, considerably shorter blackout time, higher EVF refresh rate, and it allows the use of Fuji’s ACROS black and white film simulation. ACROS is built around a more complex grain structure and it produces image with deeper, finer tonal gradation.
With its performance enhancements, the new Fujifilm X-T2 is a stunning evolution of the X Series It’s a professional grade camera that will outperform just about any camera in its price range, and compete with many DSLRs that cost even more.
Who’s it for? The X-T2 is designed for photographers who want maximum performance in a lighter weight, smaller body. It will no doubt attract DSLR shooters who are tired of carrying heavy gear, but who have sat on the sidelines, waiting for a mirrorless camera that will give them the same quality and speed they’re used to. The X-T2 is likely going to be the camera that causes many photographers to finally switch from DSLR to mirrorless. Read my full review of the Fujifilm X-T2 here.
Your advice on lenses and on why you switched to the Fuji have helped make my decision to continue investing in the system. I do a lot of hiking, mountain biking and skiing, but at first was a little apprehensive on committing to the system. Your review of the X-T2 was very helpful.
Michael Lutfy
I have just bought an X-T2 so your articles on the Fuji X system have been very useful.
Your review of the Fujinon 18-135mm lens helped me decide to include it in the minimal, lightweight system I wanted to shoot with ( I decided to go with just that and the 10-24mm - so far, anyway!).
Alan O'Brien
3. Fujifilm X-Pro 2
The Fuji X-Pro 2 is the co-flagship model of the X Series. It’s a professional grade interchangeable X camera that offers traditional styling, maximum quality imagery with the APS-C 24MP X-Trans III sensor, the new X Processor Pro engine and an innovative “Hybrid Multi Viewfinder.” Combining the best features between optical and electronic viewfinders, the X-Pro 2 lets you switch between OVF mode and EVF mode. Both modes contain a variety of shooting data and change magnification depending on your lens choice.
The X-Pro 2 features a similar set of features as the X-T2, including the focus lever joystick, Q-Menu, an upgraded autofocus system with 77 phase detect points, no apparent shutter lag, and all the gorgeous looking film simulations. It’s also weather sealed.
The X-Pro 2 does not have a built-in flash, but it’s compatible with any of the dedicated Fuji flashes, as well as other third party brand units.
The other big difference between is that while the X-T2 has an SLR inspired look and feel, the X-Pro 2 has a rangefinder design, which appeals to a great number of shooters. Where the X-T2 feels like an old trusty manual Nikon body, the X-Pro 2 feels like an old Leica or Contax.
Who’s it for? The X-Pro 2 is a favorite with commercial, wedding and portraits shooters, as well as street photographers. Basically anyone who loves the rangefinder look, who wants weather sealing, fast AF tracking and wants a high quality, beautifully styled camera for general shooting, travel, people or landscape photography. Check out the dedicated X-Pro 2 info site here.
4. Fujifilm X-E3
The X-E3 is a sweet little camera! It’s marketed as the little brother/sister rangefinder model in the series, but it’s actually a very powerful model. It has the new AF joystick/selector that’s found on all the higher end models, and it also has a number of settings that are only found on the top-end X Series cameras.
In fact, there are at least a couple of settings that are only found on the X-T2 and X-E3. It’s a great performer, and it has such a svelte, sexy design. In order to make the camera even smaller, the X-E3 doesn’t have the standard “Thumb Pad/OK Button” array on the back.
Instead, it features a new, innovative touch screen that allows for “swipe gestures” up, down, left and right. These gestures operate as Function buttons, since the four D-Pad Fn buttons are gone.
The X-E3 also has the same 24MP X-Trans sensor, image processor and autofocus system as the X-T2 and X-Pro2, so it’s a very capable camera for shooting all kinds of subject matter. In addition, it shoots 4K video, it allows for continuous shooting of up to 14 frames per second, and has an extended ISO range of up to 51200.
The only thing the X-E3 is missing is a tilting LCD screen. Otherwise, it’s definitely one of the most powerful budget mirrorless camera on the market. Check out the X-E3 special site here.
5. Fujifilm X-T20
The Fujifilm X-T20 is the little brother to the X-T2, and many of the features are the same as those found on the X-T2. It has the same APS-C 24MP X-Trans sensor, a tilting LCD scene and the same updated, high performance predictive autofocus system that will track moving subjects at up to 8 frames per second. (14 fps with the electronic shutter.) Essentially, you get the same image quality and most of the same performance as the X-T, but for $700 less.
It also has a very similar rugged SLR-style body design like the X-T1, but with a few slight design tweaks. The main thing is that it’s smaller and lighter, which makes the X-T10 an ideal travel and outdoor camera. It hardly weighs anything, and yet under the hood, it’s a real hot rod.
It has WiFi sharing, a built-in flash, all the same film simulations, including Classic Chrome, 8 programmable Fn buttons, and although it’s not weather sealed, the X-T10 is a tough little camera that would be great for just about any kind of use.
Who’s it for? The X-T20 is a very capable camera, and with an attractive price point of only $899, it’s an excellent introduction into the Fuji X camera lineup. With fully updated technology, it’s ideal for any kind of shooter, and since it’s very similar in design and operation, the X-T20 is an ideal backup or second camera for X-T2 users. You can also check out the dedicated X-T10 site here.
6. Fujifilm X-E2S
Note: The X-E2S is now available. Essentially, it’s the X-E2 with updated firmware that dramatically improves the camera’s autofocus system, and increases performance in a number of areas.
The Fuji X-E2S is very similar to the X-Pro 1, except that it does not have the Hybrid Viewfinder. It only has an electronic viewfinder, but the with the latest firmware update that Fuji put out, the X-E2 now has an even better EVF than it did before. It also has a built-in flash, as well as a hot shoe.
Featuring the same APS-C 16MP X-Trans sensor as the other models, a max shooting rate of 6 fps, and a greatly improved Hybrid AF system over the X-E1, the X-E2 now has the same AF speed as the X-T1. However, it does NOT have the same predictive focus tracking system, so it will not not be able to track moving subjects and freeze action over multiple frames like the X-T1.
Nonetheless, the X-E2 is an awesome rangefinder-style camera that has the same image quality as the other cameras in the line, the same film simulations, the same creative shooting modes, and the Wi-Fi button that allows you to transfer images from the camera to your smartphone or tablet. However, you cannot control the camera with your device like you can on the X-T1.
I shot with an X-E1 during a bike trip through the Alps last summer, and I found it to be an enjoyable camera to use. The X-E2 offers the same quality with an improved package.
Who’s it for? Since it uses the same lenses as the other X cameras, the X-E2 makes a great general camera for pros and amateurs alike. It works great for portraits, travel, landscapes and even commercial work, but keep in mind, it’s not weather sealed, so it may not be the best choice for heavy outdoor use. Still, it’s lightweight, compact, it packs a lot of features, and makes gorgeous looking images. Here’s the dedicated X-E2 info site.
Note, the X-E1 is still available, and it’s a really good price. The EVF and AF aren’t as good as they are on the X-E2, but image quality is the same. If you don’t need super fast AF, and if you do most of your composing with the LCD screen, then the X-E1 is an awesome camera of the money. It would be a good choice for beginning to intermediate photographers, or someone looking for a great travel camera that takes great photos.
7. Fujifilm X100F
When it was announced in 2010, the Fuji X100 took the world by storm. It offered uncompromising image quality in a gorgeous, all metal, rangefinder-style body. The latest version, which is the Fuji X100F, offers an even better 24MP X-Trans sensor, the new X-Processor Pro image processing chip, the new AF Joystick/Selector lever and an even better viewfinder and improved AF performance over the original version.
The X100 is really an amazing little camera. It’s got a fast fixed 23mm f/2 lens, (35mm view) a shooting rate of 6 fps, 10cm macro and it also features the same switchable Hybrid EVF/OVF Viewfinder that’s found on the X-Pro 1.
It also sports a built-in flash and features a leaf shutter that allows for ultra high speed flash sync. For this reason, the X100F is the camera of choice for heavy flash shooters like Strobist™ David Hobby. Another really nice feature is the built-in 3 f/stop ND filter, which allows you to shoot slower shutter speeds in brighter light.
People also love the X100 cameras because of it’s sheer simplicity. Small body, one view, on-board flash, and all the quality and creativity you’d ever need. Also, the 23mm is a great angle of view for many subjects. It’s not super wide,but it’s kind of a sweet-spot focal length for shooting just about everything from landscapes to travel, low light, city scenes and environmental portraits. There are also conversion lenses (35mm and 50mm) that make the X100 even more versatile.
Who’s it for? Anyone, really. It offers a perfect solution for going light, fast and simple with your photography, which is why it’s a favorite of many street photographers. It also makes an ideal companion/backup camera for your interchangeable system whether you shoot Fuji or not. Lots of Nikon and Canon shooters have these things too because they’re awesome. The Fuji X100 is truly a modern classic that will be remembered of a very long time in the history of photography gear. Check out the dedicated X100F info site here.
8. Fujifilm X-T100
The X-T100 is the newest X Series camera from Fujifilm, but in my mind, it’s the camera they should have introduced a few years ago. It’s an entry-level model that’s designed around a classic, SLR-style body with a viewfinder. Think of this one as the little brother/sister to the X-T20.
With a 24MP CMOS sensor, three top-deck dials, a 3-way tilt LCD screen with touch capability, Bluetooth image transfer, and many of the same creative features you’ll find on all the higher end models, the X-T100 gets you into the Fuji system at a budget price.
Finally, Fujifilm has a true X Series camera that can compete on price with all those Nikon D3000 series cameras and Canon Rebels. However, unlike cheap DSLRs, the X-T100 gives you some significant benefits that DLSRs don’t have, and it has 11 Film Simulations that give you those awesome Fuji colors.
In addition, it offers 14-bit RAW shooting, 91-point Phase Detect Autofocus with updated AF algorithms, ISO that goes up to 12,800, 6 frames per second shooting in CH, touchscreen LCD, a larger buffer than the X-A5, and decent battery life.
Since it has the same mount as all the other models, you can use any Fuji lens on the X-T100, or third party lenses that use the Fuji F-Mount. And it comes in three colors.
Who’s it for? Simple. Anyone who wants an X Series camera at a budget price. At only $599 for the body, and $699 for a body/lens combo, the Fujifilm X-T100 is the ideal camera for beginning photographers, price conscious photographers who don’t need the higher end features of the more expensive models. In other words, if you don’t super fast autofocus, weather sealing or high end video features, the X-T100 could be an appealing choice for landscapes, travel, street shooting or general, fun photography. You can read more about the X-T100 here.
9. Fujifilm X-A5
The brand new Fujifilm X-A5 is the budget-friendly consumer X Series camera. It’s less expensive, and while it has some stepped down features, it does not necessarily have stepped down quality. The X-A5 has a 24MP APS-C CMOS sensor. Combined with the updated image processing engine, the X-A3 delivers excellent quality images. (Note- The X-A5 uses a CMOS sensor instead of the X-Trans sensor.)
With the X-A5, you get the versatility of interchangeable lenses and DSLR image quality in a very small and compact package, but with the useful advantages that mirrorless camera offer. Fuji also introduced a line of smaller, less expensive lenses for this camera to make it even lighter and more affordable. It comes with the XC 15-45mm f/3.5-5.6 lens, but you can actually use any of the XF lenses on this body as well. This makes it even more versatile when you improve and want to step up your system.
The X-A5 features a a compact, lightweight, reto-style look that’s characteristic of the X Series, and it has a touch-screen tilting LCD panel. The screen actually flips all the way up into “selfie mode.” It has an ergonomic grip, and wi-fi connectivity that works with the Fujifilm Camera Remote app so you can download your photos right from the camera to your mobile device. And it comes in three colors- Black, brown and red.
With a built-in flash, 77-point AF system, including manual focus, most of the creative modes and film simulations found on the higher end models, video, a host of creative shooting and auto modes and EV+/- at your fingertips, the X-A3 offers a lot of options in a bargain package. And it’s tiny. Seriously. It’s even smaller than some fixed lens compact cameras, especially when you put on the XF 27mm pancake lens.
Who’s it for? The Fuji X-A5 is definitely designed with consumers in mind. It’s a great introduction into the Fuij X Camera system, and would make a great all around camera for any beginning to intermediate photographers. As with any of the X cameras, it’s a viable alternative to a DSLR because it still gives you impressive image quality and resolution, but in a much more compact package. It’s great for just about any kind of shooting. Read more about the X-A3 here.
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The May 2018 firmware updates added the new Focus Bracketing feature to the Fujifilm X-T2 (which is currently $500 off) and X-H1. First introduced in the GFX earlier this year, and [now included in the X-T3 and X-T30], Focus Bracketing has been one of the most talked about and alas, one of the most confusing features since it was released into the two top shelf X Series models.
Next step is to do EDIT —> Auto-Blend Layers…, making sure you have the “Stack Images” box is checked. Hit OK and wait for it to finish.
ETERNA was Fujifilm’s professional motion picture film stock and it has been reproduced inside the X-H1. With cinematic color rendition, lower saturation and a very high dynamic range, ETERNA is designed to give you that “classic movie look” right out of the box, and it lends itself extremely well to color grading.
The X-H1 is built to be a professional grade camera in every way, and it features a scratch and ding resistant magnesium alloy chassis that’s 25% thicker than the body on the X-T2. The lens mount has been redesigned to make it more shock-resistant without adding extra bulk.
