In my two most recent video lessons on my YouTube Channel, I’ve talked about how to ensure proper exposure when using mirrorless cameras, and also how you can use aperture, shutter speed, ISO and the histogram to gain even more control in your process of trying to get the best exposure. 

In my latest lesson, I talk about about the most important decisions you’ll need to make into order for all of this to fall into place and get the best exposure for your scene. If settings like aperture, shutter speed and ISO are the ingredients, think of these decisions as your master recipe for getting a good shot. As good as modern cameras are, it’s these decisions that ultimately determine how your photos will look.

For as much information and detail that modern sensors can record, digital images still can’t match the tonal range that your eyes and brain can recognize out in the world. No camera can render accurate detail in both the extreme highlights and the darkest shadows at the same time. If there’s one thing you remember from this lesson, it should be that.

Of course, you can do this with HDR photography and by blending multiple exposures, but it doesn’t look quite real and our brains know that. That’s why a lot of HDR imagery has such a unique look. 

Due to the way that camera sensors record light, it’s technically better to overexpose your images. However, that doesn’t take into account what looks aesthetically better to us as viewers. We actually prefer it the other way around. We’re drawn much more to darker, more saturated colors over less saturated highlights.

So how do we get around these limitations and contradictions and shoot imagery that is both appealing to your viewers and that preserves enough visual information without blowing out with too much white?

Here’s the answer:

Expose for the most important bright subject matter

This is where your own creative decision making process enters the equation. Knowing that the camera won’t be able to record everything you see, you need to evaluate your scene and prioritize your subject matter in terms of overall importance and go by this all important guideline.

If there’s one exposure rule that you permanently burn into your mind and remember for the rest of your photography life, it should be this:

Your BRIGHTEST SUBJECT MATTER and your MOST IMPORTANT SUBJECT MATTER must be IN THE SAME LIGHT, or else you’ll have too much contrast.

Let’s say you’re shooting a scene that contains both bright, colorful skies and dark shadows. And let’s assume that your subject is moving in and out of the shadows. Maybe there’s some important subject matter in the darker areas of the frame that, ideally, you’d like to preserve.

In this kind of situation, if you were to expose for the highlights, your shadows will drop to black and any subject matter in those areas will completely indiscernible. However, If you expose for the shadows, your nice, rich blue sky will end up as a washed out field of white, which as I pointed out above, won’t look very good.

So…

In order to shoot the scene in such a way that lets you create the most dynamic, exciting image, you need to establish the hierarchy of subject matter in terms of visual/creative importance and do one of these four things:

1. Wait for different light

Wait until the shadows pass, or come back and shoot the scene during another time of day perhaps at sunset, or when the sun has shifted enough to illuminate your shadowed areas.

2. Wait for your subject to come out of the shadows

If your subject is moving, maybe you just need to wait a few seconds or minutes for them to pass through the shadows and come back into the sunlight. When they do, you’ll be able to capture the subject in the same light as the sky and preserve details in both.

3. Recompose and exclude the highlights

Instead of trying to show both, recompose your scene and exclude as much of the highlight detail as possible. This way you won’t have to worry about it washing out. Simply remove it from the equation. This could involve changing vantage points or zooming in with your lens.  

4. Let your shadows drop to black

Instead of trying to look into the shadows, let them drop to black. If there’s no way you can get your subject out of the shadows, then take a different approach and shoot the scene as a silhouette. This will preserve your bright sky, (this works very well with a dramatic sunset) and it will create a suggestion of your subject. 

With many scenes, you don’t actually need to show every single detail in the subject to tell the story. Sometimes the less you show, the more powerful your image will be. Silhouettes can make for very powerful compositions.

These four rules will allow you to better deal with high levels of contrast in your scene. Learn them. Remember then. Pull them out of your hat whenever you’re shooting in challenging light, and you’ll find that they’ll let you solve difficult contrast issues in a multitude of photography situations.

In the next post, I’ll bring it all together, and show you how to combine these decisions with your other exposure ingredients, so that you can effectively nail the look you want for your scene.

September 8, 2020
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The Most Important Exposure Decisions You Need to Make

In my brand new video, called Lake George Glacier Hike, I take you along with me during a summer hike out to an Alaskan glacier and give you a virtual adventure tour of this massive and remote ice field in the Chugach Mountains.

As with my film AERIAL ADVENTURE, this video is also set to an original music piece that I scored to add an air of majesty and wonder that the visuals evoke.

The Lake George Glacier is one of large ice fields in the Chugach Mountains of Alaska. I’ve explored this area a number of times over the years, and it’s always an amazing sight to behold.

During this summer’s visit, I was struck at how much the glacier has receded in a very short time frame. Three years ago, I was able to walk right out on the ice, but now, the edge of the ice lies hundreds of feet away from the surrounding hillsides and it’s much lower in elevation. Check out this blog post to see the dramatic difference in the ice levels compared to a few years ago.

All of the photos and most of the footage in this video was shot with the FUJIFILM X-T3 and the FUJFILM X100V. The music was recorded in Logic Pro X and the guitar solo as played on my sunburst Les Paul through IK Multimedia Amplitube software.

Before I bought my first camera, I studied music production and even took an intro to film scoring class at Berklee College of Music. So, here we are, nearly 30 years later, and I’m finally using my degree.

It’s actually quite fulfilling to expand and combine my interests in music and photography in this way, and it’s something I’ve aspired to for many years. I’ll still keep doing my video tutorials, but I definitely plan to add more adventure films like this to my YouTube Channel as well.

Enjoy the video, I hope it provides you with a fun and inspiring jump start to your Monday. And I’ve already got my next lesson planned, so stay tuned!

August 31, 2020
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Watch My Adventure Short Film – Lake George Glacier Hike

Last week, I posted a video lesson on how to ensure proper exposure when shooting with mirrorless cameras. It’s actually a surprisingly easy method, and it will get you by in most situations, even when shooting in tricky and challenging light.

In that video, I share my exact exposure method when I’m shooting with my FUJIFILM mirrorless cameras, even when dealing with very tricky and challenging light. Note, these methods work for other types of mirrorless cameras as well, which make getting the right exposure a much easier process than when using DSLRs. (They also work when shooting in Live View mode with a DSLR)

>My second lesson in the series is called EXPOSURE TIPS: How to use. Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO and The Histogram. In this tutorial, I explain even further the exact method I use when espouse for my photos, and show you how to combine these fundamental exposure components into an efficient workflow when you’re shooting your own images on location. I also teach you a couple of important tips that can help you be even quicker with the camera.

Proper exposure is one of the most vital aspects in photography, so this is pretty important information. You may already know it, but it’s worth a refresher and to see how I handle tricky scenes with my own cameras.

Enjoy the video and let me know what you think by leaving a comment!

You can also read a blog post version of the entire two lessons combined here.

August 24, 2020
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EXPOSURE TIPS: How to Use Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO and The Histogram

One year ago this week, I posted my first video tutorial here YouTube. It was a detailed explanation of the Fuji film simulations and how you can use them to maximize your own creativity with your Fuji camera. That video has become my most watched tutorial, so if you haven’t seen it, you can find it here at this link. 

A few months after I made that video, Fuji added another film sim to the mix called CLASSIC Neg. It was introduced with the release of the X-Pro 3, and it’s now found inside the X-T4 and X100V as well. 

CLASSIC Neg quickly became one of my favorite film sims, and I’ve used it extensively on a wide variety of subject matter during the course of this year, so in this post, I’m going to give you a close look at CLASSIC Neg. and show you what you can do with it. 

Like most of their other film sims, CLASSIC Neg. was directly patterned after one of Fuji’s legacy films.

Built to replicate the look of the FUJICOLOR SUPERIA color print film introduced in the late 1990s, it’s designed to give you the look of consumer color negative film that was so prevalent in the decades before digital photography took over. That said, you can actually still buy SUPERA print film.

In a sense, CLASSIC Neg. is designed to look like snapshots of old, you know, back when we shot print film and got our pictures back from the lab in that little envelope. Or, depending on your age, maybe you don’t know. For millions of amateur shooters, that’s what photography was all about through much of our lives.

 

With CLASSIC Neg., Fujifilm digs into its 85+ year history with film and color, and gives us a unique, but familiar look. This new film sim taps into our color memories with a bold and unique expression that plays nicely with the already rich set of color choices we have on the X Series.

The color palette of CLASSIC Neg is interesting. It has a similar, strong tonality to CLASSIC CHROME, but with slightly richer “Fuji-style” colors that you see in PROVIA the PRO Neg. film sims. It also has whiter whites than most of the other film sims, even Velvia. To my eyes, the best way to describe it would be Pro Neg Hi with brighter highlights, slightly darker shadows and a little bit less saturation.

The overall effect is a slightly muted, but high contrast profile that, again, is reminiscent of glossy lab prints that so many of us grew up on. 

It might not seem so great at first. After all, it’s not as vivid as velvia and it’s got got that high contrast without those bold colors, but this gives CLASSIC NEG it a very representational look, and if you’ve watched a few of my video lesson on YouTube, then you’ve probably heard me talk about the notion of how the ideas of representation and abbreviation play in photography. 

In my mind, making powerful images isn’t about perfectly reproducing your subjects, it’s about creating a visual representation of your scene and abbreviating the strongest visual elements and ideas present. Instead of spoon feeding everything to your viewers, you make them work for it and try to imagine what you didn’t show in your picture. It’s that whole less is more concept. 

I find CLASSIC NEG to be a highly versatile film sim. It seems to work with just about every kind of subject and it produces a very cool and timeless look that holds a great deal of style. It works well in the sunshine and unlike a film sim like Velvia, it actually works quite well in the shade and under white, overcast skies.

Its qualities are accented in a wonderful way when you add the COLOR CHROME FX Blue effect, especially when you have any kind of blue tones in your image, either blue sky or open shade. 

In addition, it’s very customizable. I love dialing the shadow detail up and down to play around with the contrast, and also boosting or cutting the COLOR control, in order to make it even more bold or subdued, depending on the look you’re going for. 

A few weeks ago, I was out photographing at the Knik Glacier, and I took out my X100 to grab a few shots. As soon as I looked through the viewfinder, I was blown away by what I saw. When I looked at the image, I noticed that the camera had been set to Classic Neg, with -2 HL, -2 and +4 color with CCFX Blue Strong and the Grain setting to WEAK.

CLASSIC Neg. -2 Highlights, -2 Shadows, +4 Color.

 

I don’t even remember what I had been shooting, I was probably just messing around with the controls, but that’t what is was on, and it looked amazing. That’s that representational look I was talking about. This color isn’t 100% accurate, that doesn’t really matter to our eyes. Our brain sees beyond that, and in our minds, it just looks really cool.

That’s how well these color sims have been engineered. They’ve been crafted with such careful precision. Not every color recipe looks great, and you can imagine that certain color combinations might look pretty bad. The Fuji colors play so nicely with our brains and with the notion of memorized color, which is a concept I talked about in my last video about using bold and subdued colors in your photography.

CLASSIC NEG also look awesome in combination with the new CLARITY setting you have inside the Q menu. You can crank the clarity up to add nice, bold definition and harder edges to the photo, or you can can it deal it back to soften things up and reduce the overall contrast. Since the CLARITY control goes form +5 to -5, this gives you a lot of leeway for making fine tune adjustments to your image and coming up with unique looks.

Classic Neg, -1 Shadow, +5 Clarity

 

In fact, I’d say that CLASSIC NEG is one of the reason I’ve used my X100V so much this year. As much as I love my X-T3, it doesn’t have CLASSIC NEG, at least not yet. I’ll often take both cameras with me and use them side by side, keeping my X100V set to CLASSIC NEG.

Given that the X100V, X-Pro 3 and X-T3 all have the same internal processor, though, I don’t see any reason why CLASSIC Neg can’t be added the X-T3 and X-T30 in with a future firmware update. I haven’t heard anything from Fuji on this, but I’m going to remain hopeful.

If you do have an older Fuji and are thinking about upgrading, this might be one of the strongest reasons to upgrade to one of the three new models.

As you can see, I really love this new sim, it has a wonderfully rich and characteristic look, and it’s yet one more tool that we have to evoke and inspire different moods with our imagery.

So much of Fujifilm’s legacy is wrapped around film and color, and the film simulations are the extension of that rich heritage in the digital world. I just think that the film simulations are the lifeblood of the X Series cameras, and they foster such a unique style of creativity. They allow you to quickly choose a look that matches your mood and your own creative ideas for the scene, and quickly create an image that matches your own ideas and feelings in the moment. 

So, if you have an X100V, X-Pro 3 or X-T4, I encourage you to give the new Classic Neg a try. I think that once you become familiar with it’s visual characteristics, you’ll find it to be a pretty useful color profile for creating image that have a familiar sense of drama.

You can watch my video tutorial about CLASSIC Neg. here.

Velvia
CLASSIC Neg.
CLASSIC Neg. -2 Shadow Tone, +4 Color
August 6, 2020
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A Look at FUJIFILM’s CLASSIC Neg. Film Simulation

You can listen to me on Episode 124 of the Street Shots Photography Podcast. During this hour-plus episode, I discuss a variety of photography topics with with New York City photographer Antonio Rosario, including the fact that even though we have very different styles of shooting, we share a number of things in common, including our former jobs as stock photography editors.

I had met Antonio a couple years ago at the PhotoPlus trade show, but only briefly. It was just a quick introduction before I had to high tail it over to Penn Station and catch the Newark train.

He’s a fellow Fuji shooter and so we talked at length about the legendary Fuji colors, creativity, trusting your creative instincts, and developing a style during our early years of shooting. We also veered into a number of other topics, as it always happens during these kinds of extended conversations.

I thoroughly enjoyed being a guest on Antonio’s podcast, and I hope to return for another episode. you can visit his podcast website and listen to us chat in Ep. 124 here.

July 24, 2020
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Listen to Me on the Street Shots Photography Podcast

Skylum has released the version 4.3 update to Luminar 4, and with it comes a bread new Search Tool. In addition, they’ve added a number of performance upgrades, a better visual experience when using Looks, and support for some of the latest model cameras, including the Fujifilm X-T4 and X100V.

The new Search Tool is a long awaited feature that adds a totally new functionality to the program, and helps speed up your workflow by streamlining the way that you find your images in the Library.

Located in the Gallery View window, Luminar’s new Search Tool allows you to find images by name, folder, date or extension. (You can watch a quick demo of the search function here). This allows you to quickly locate single images, or batches of images.

You can’t search by caption or keyword yet, but I would imaging that’s coming. As with everything else, the Skylum engineers are moving in steps as they build out the program.

Instead of trying to add everything at once, which make potential problems much more difficult to diagnose, they add one or two new features at a time and improve functionality on a continuous basis. This keeps things much more simple and streamlined in the design process.

That said, even though Luminar’s new Search Tool isn’t quite as powerful as what we’re used to in many programs, it’s a good start, and something they can now build on.

Other Visual & Performance Improvements in v.4.3

In addition to the Search Tool, Luminar 4.3 opens RAW files even faster than before, and overall, the program has been optimized to use considerably less memory, so tools will be more responsive and operate more smoothly. This is especially true with the Crop tool, which has been tweaked for even better performance.

The Looks panel has been improved to give a much better viewing experience. Now, when you hover over a specific Look down in the Looks bar, instead of seeing the preview of that look on the tiny thumbnail, you’ll see the effect previewed on your main image. This will give you a much better idea of how each Look will affect your pictures. (See an example here.)

Luminar has also added support for the latest cameras, including the Fujifilm X-T4, X100V, XT-200, Nikon D780, Z50, Canon EOS-1D X Mark III, Sony A9 II and others from Olympus and Panasonic.

Click here to see all of the new performance enhancements and upgrades in Luminar v.4.3. It’s a free update if you’re already a Luminar 4 user.

If you’re not a Luminar 4 user, you can check out the program here, and if you decide to purchase it, use coupon code DANBAILEY to save $10. 

July 16, 2020
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Luminar 4.3 Adds New Camera Support and a Search Tool

One of the most amazing and wonderful things about photography is that you can capture a subject with endless variety, and it’s this creative experimentation allows you to create an image that matches your own ideas about the scene, at least your ideas in that very moment.

In most cases, no two people will capture the same scene in the exact same way, and even if you visit a scene more than once, chances are, you’ll won’t create the exact same type of image that you did last time.

With endless variations, in light, weather, season and your own moods, there are infinite variations in how to photograph any particular subject. When you add in the multitude of ways you can possibly work your scene, this it makes photographing any given subject a very special and unique experience, each and every time.

By “working the scene,” I mean using different methods and techniques to fine tune your compositions, in order to increase the overall visual power of your photos.

Slight variations in everything from vantage point, framing, lens choice, exposure, what film simulation or color palette you choose, or if you apply other adjustments in the camera to alter the look of the scene can make a big difference in how the photo will look.

This is actually one of the most fun aspects of this whole craft. Getting lost in the zen of your own creativity there in the moment is what this whole process is all about. We do this not just for the finished pictures, but because we love the act of experimenting with our creative ideas and playing around with different looks, in order to make pictures that we enjoy, and that resonate with our own visual sense.

Working The Scene – Little Tiny Tundra Flower

A couple weeks ago, I did a solo hike with my Fujifilm X100V. It was one of those gorgeous June evenings, and upon arriving at a little flat patch on the hillside, I sat down in the tundra, ate my sandwich and spent a good ten minutes taking pictures of this little tiny flower that was next to me.

I was pleased to find the X100V has an extremely close focus distance of only 10cm (3.9 inches). This is closer than any of my other Fuji lenses, and when combined with the new Flip-up LCD screen, this makes shooting ground level closeups much easier and quite fun!

I quickly lost myself in the process of capturing frame after frame of this flower, and making slight tweaks to my composition and cameras settings, just to see what I could get. The collection of photos below represent the entire sequence of shots I made, and what creative and compositional changes and settings I applied to each one.

As you can see, there are a lot of possible looks you can get with simple framing adjustments, even if you don’t add in any other camera adjustments. Next time you’re out photographing, make sure you’re experimenting with different vantage points and framing options.

Velvia Film Sim, CLARITY -3
Velvia Film Sim, but this time CLARITY +3
Velvia Film Sim, CLARITY -5
Velvia Film Sim, CLARITY -5
Straight Velvia Film Sim, no other in camera adjustments.
Velvia Film Sim, CLARITY +5
Velvia Film Sim, no CLARITY adjustment
Velvia Film Sim, no CLARITY adjustment
Velvia Film Sim, COLOR +4

 

Velvia Film Sim, no CLARITY adjustment

 

CLASSIC Neg. Film Sim, COLOR +4

 

 

July 13, 2020
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The Joys of Working Your Scene When Photographing Landscapes

Today I did an hour-long webinar for the B&H Photo Event Space, titled 5 Tips for Composing More Powerful Photographs. If you weren’t able to tune in live, you can watch the replay here.

During the session, I outlined what I feel are some of the most essential compositional techniques that can help you increase the visual power of your imagery, and I also answered questions from the participants who had tuned in to watch the talk.

This was, by far, the more interesting and fun part of the event, because it’s always more fun to engage with viewers and expand on the dialog that each question introduces than sit there and lecture the iPad screen.

In fact, most of the time was spent answering questions and sharing my insight about a number of different photography topics and ideas.

This has been a weird year indeed. Usually by the middle of summer, I’ve done a number of in-person talks and presentations in different areas around the country, but obvious with the Covid pandemic, we’re limited to doing webinars and Zoom chats.

They’re ok, but I can’t wait to get back to regular social life.

In the meantime, you can watch the replay of my B&H webinar here.

July 6, 2020
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Watch The Replay of My B&H Photo Event Space Webinar

In my recent YouTube lesson videos, I’ve been showing you how to use the creative tools inside your Fuji camera in order to expand your “in the moment” creativity when you’re out shooting.

I’ve culminated my ideas about this topic in my latest video, called SHOOTING FOR THE MOMENT: Why You Should Embrace the FUJI JPEGS.

The Fuji’s all have great sensors and they do produce wonderful RAW files, but there’s a certain magic that you gain when you move away from the traditional RAW workflow and embrace the creative moment with your photography.

Now, I’m not saying that you should never shoot RAW, but we’ve all been indoctrinated by the big names to believe that we HAVE to shoot RAW all the time if we want to be serious photographer and produce good quality work.

However, that’s simply not true. 

The color and tonal processing technology inside your Fuji camera is so good, that in most cases, you’re not losing anything by shooting JPEG, and in fact in most cases, you gain a huge amount of creative liberation, freedom and “in the moment” magic that’s lost if you wait to process your images later.

When you shoot JPEG, you’re not giving up any resolution, you’re simply letting the camera do your processing. You’re simply taking advantage of the color science and expertise that Fuji has perfected in their 80+ year history.

Add in all of those tools I’ve been talking about in my recent videos, and you actually have a great deal of control right in the camera.

In many cases, you can actually get as good or better results than if you sat in front of your computer doing post processing. Besides, what does that really give you, except more time at your computer?

Sure, maybe you’ll be able to rescue a few lost highlights or shadow tones, but does that always make the image better? Maybe rescuing those tones doesn’t really matter in the overall message of the image. Not showing everything can actually make your photograph even stronger.

So, whether you’re a RAW only shooter, an occasional RAW shooter, watch my latest lesson and see why I think it makes sense to embrace the Fuji JPEGs. And if you’re already a JPEG shooter, check it out anyway; it will validate your method even more with a positive, “feel good” message.

Either way, thanks for reading, enjoy the video and have a great weekend!

June 12, 2020
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Shooting for the Moment – Why You Should Embrace the FUJI JPEGS

As I expand the scope of my YouTube video lessons, I’ve come up with a new idea: Mini Virtual Photo Workshops, the first of which I have now posted to my channel. 

In this bite-sized, fifteen minute workshop, I take you to the shores of Colony Glacier here in Alaska, where I explore a small section of the scene and walk you through the process of creating a few landscape images right there on location.

With clear instruction, I explain my process for evaluating the scene, looking for possible subjects and narrowing them down into a workable composition. Using a selection three different lenses, I break them down into Wide, Middle and Long, and give you specific tips for maximizing each kind of lens when working your frame.

I also deal with exposure issues and show you how it’s possible to create a series of compelling images, even when you don’t have very dramatic light. In fact, I think that shooting in less-than-ideal light can offer a better opportunity for learning, because most of us already know how to make photos in beautiful light.

In addiiton, when you have that kind of brilliant, magical light on your subject, it’s easy to focus solely on that and miss some of the other compositional tips that can lend to a more powerful photograph.

This lesson isn’t just for Fuji users. Even though I use my X Series cameras and lenses to create these photos, the methods I talk about are universal. The process of seeing, composing and using different focal lengths applies to any kind of camera system, and the general look and feel of my Fuji-specific adjustments can easily be created in post processing, if that’s your preferred workflow.

I’m pretty excited about this lesson, and I definitely plan to do more of these \\mini virtual photo workshops. Not only does it allow you to come along with me in places that you might not normally be able to visit and get direct, real-world photography tips from me on location, I see this style of instruction as a natural progression of the kinds of online tutorials that I’ve been working up to.

So join me for my Mini Alaska Virtual Photo Workshop Video Lesson, enjoy the lesson and let me know what you think!

June 8, 2020
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Watch My Mini Alaska Virtual Photo Workshop Video Lesson