FujiLR2stPeople love shooting the Fuji X cameras, largely because the images have a certain “look” to them. This is due to the Film Simulations that the Fuji engineers carefully modeled into the image processing software. These are taken from some of Fuji’s most celebrated film stocks from the past 80 years and they include films like Provia, Veliva, and Astia, as well as a handful of color negative and black and white choices.

Whenever you’re shooting in JPEG mode, you select one of these film sims. The color palette of that particular film are embedded in your final image. Essentially, it’s like using film again. You choose a desired look based on your style lighting conditions and subject matter and go for it, and since the Fuji JPEGS are so good, it saves time from having to shoot everything in RAW and then process later. Having shot many of these original films, I can attest, they look great.

Under most conditions, the JPEGS are more than adequate and perfectly fine for general use, and even a variety of professional applications. However, what about when the light is tricky or when you simply want more control? Up until now, if you shot RAW, you’d lose the look of the Fuji film sims, and believe me, it’s next to impossible to perfectly recreate them yourself.

Fortunately, the Adobe Lightroom 5.4 update includes the Fuji color profiles in the Development panel. This means you can not only preserve your selected film sim, you can actually go back and apply any one of them to your RAW file. This gives you a tremendous amount of control and lets you take full advantage of how good the Fuji X-Trans sensor really is.

FujiLR2Pro
Here I’ve added the PROVIA color profile. This is the Fuji Standard film simulation that gets added if you shoot an X camera and don’t select a film sim. It has a wonderful, all around, vibrant look. I used to shoot PROVIA all the time.
FujiLR2V
Now I’ve changed it to VELVIA, which was Fuji’s groundbreaking color slide film they introduced in the early 90s. It had rich, saturated colors and high contrast. Awesome for landscapes and when shooting during magic hour. It’s a little too saturated for some subjects, including portraits and faces.

 

Here’s how it works. When you open your Fuji RAF file in the Development panel, click on the Camera Calibration Tab at the bottom (see top photo). In the Profile menu, you’ll see that Lightroom has automatically applied the Adobe Standard Color Profile.

If you click on the Profile menu, you’ll bring up the entire list of Fuji profiles and apply any one of them to your image, or not. Since you’re developing a RAW file, you’re not actually writing the profile to the image, and you can always go back and change it if you wish.

The color profiles you have at your disposal are, PROVIA, VELVIA, ASTIA, Pro Neg Hi, Pro Neg Std, Monochrome (black and white), and three Monochrome settings with different filters applied, RED, YELLOW and GREEN. The only one that’s not included is SEPIA, but that’s not a big deal, since Lightroom already has Split Toning effects built right in.

You can do this with RAW files from any of the Fuji X cameras, including the X10 and X20, and all the interchangeable bodies from the X-A1 all the way up to the X-E2, X-Pro 1 and the new X-T1.

Note, these options is also included in the latest version of Adobe Photoshop. You can find the profile choices in the same place, inside the Camera Calibration Tab in the Camera RAW window. Also, here’s a how to apply them on Import, rather than applying them later. This could save you even more time.

FujiLR1
Clicking on the Profile menu in the Camera Calibration tab brings up the full list of Fuji Film sims.
FujiLR1Prov
Here’s PROVIA. It has a more vibrant look than the regular Adobe Standard profile.
FujiLR1a
Pro Neg Std. is based on professional color negative film and it has a softer, lower contrast look. It softens things up nicely, which makes it a great choice for shooting portraits in harder light.
FujiLR1Mon
The MONOCHROME profiles all look great, and depending on your subject matter and lighting conditions, you can accentuate a variety of tones and pull out some really great looks.
FujiLR1Red
MONOCHROME+G Filter. Green filters in black and white photography lightens up darker colors like blues and greens. This makes it great for separating green foliage from other colors in the scene. Great for shooting flowers and nature.
FujiLR1Gr
MONOCHROME+R. Red filters have the strongest effect and they boost contrast in black and white photos. I like this setting for shooting landscapes and mountains because it darkens blue skies and turn them almost black. Red filters accentuate definition and give your photos a more dramatic look.


April 29, 2014
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Using Fuji Film Simulations with RAW in Adobe Lightroom

ChasingAlpenglow

I’m excited to announce my new mini-site: Adventures.danbaileyphoto.com, which will feature some of my favorite image collections as big, pretty photo essays. It’s candy for your eyes, with just enough flavor and story information to make you feel like you’re part of the adventure as well.

I love writing and posting about my adventures here on the blog, but let’s face it, sometimes the format just doesn’t do much for the photography. I wanted to find a theme that displayed images the way they should be seen, sometimes as full screen and sometimes as small groups of photos that go together. This new clean format gives you the viewing experience that I would want you to have. I’m really excited about how it looks!

My first story on the site is Chasing Alpenglow – Aerial Photography in Southcentral Alaska, and it highlights a few of the aerial shooting missions that I’ve done with my little Cessna during the past two years. It takes you on a photo journey over the Chugach Mountains, the rugged Kichatna Spires, the  Neacola range and the Knik Glacier.

Enjoy the photo essay, share it with your friends, then bookmark the page and look for more stories coming soon!

 

April 28, 2014
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Read “Chasing Alpenglow” on my new Adventure Mini-Site

SandiskcardGot cards? Got fast cards? Got big cards? As cameras keep improving, RAW file sizes keep getting bigger, as do the buffer sizes, and you find that the older, slower cards don’t quite keep up anymore.

Especially when shooting in continuous mode, which isn’t just for action. I love CH for grabbing the slight changes in expression when I’m photographing people.

Right now you can save up to 50% and more on Sandisk SD memory cards. There are quite a few models on sale right now, so it’s a pretty good time to stock up.

In my mind, the best value is the Sandisk Extreme Pro 95MB/S, which is an excellent trade off in price vs. speed. In the tests I’ve seen, it’s really isn’t that much slower than the new super fast SanDisk Extreme Pro 280MB/S UHS-II, which are the fastest cards to date.

When shooting a 10 second burst of RAW photos with the X-T1, the 95MB/S card takes about 14 seconds to finish writing, while the 280MB/S card takes about 9 seconds. To compare, the Extreme 45MB/S card takes about 20-25 seconds to write, and it’s only capable of shooting about 60% of the shots in a 30 second burst as the UHS-II card.

I’ve also got some Ultra 30MB/S cards, and if you’re not shooting super fast action or using your camera on CH mode very often, these are great value cards: only eleven bucks for the 16GB. They’re certainly great for travel and landscape photography where you’re not burning frame after frame really fast. However, try to shoot a long high speed burst and you’ll be waiting for well over 30 seconds for this card to write, during which time, your camera will be locked up.

You can never have too many cards and now is a very good time to pick up some extras, especially if you’re shooting with one of the new Fuji, Olympus or Sony mirrorless cameras. And what about 16 or 32GB? I guess it depends on how much you shoot RAW. 16GB cards will store a couple thousand JPEGS, but only about 300-400 RAW, so if you’re a RAW shooter, you might go for the 32. Or 64.

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April 22, 2014
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Big Savings on SanDisk Memory Cards

_DSF3236I just finished shooting a week-long assignment for a new client here in Alaska. The job involved a variety of challenging locations, weather and subject matter that ranged from fast action, outdoor lifestyle, portraits, running kids, extreme mountain terrain, and a host of other photographic situations that pushed both my skills and my gear.

Of course, I took along my Fujifilm X-T1, figuring that I’d shoot it side by side with my Nikon D700. It seemed like a perfect opportunity to further test its capabilities in a very high demand assignment situation where weather, speed, image quality and quickly changing conditions were all huge factors.

Halfway through the first day, we were shooting a scene where the helicopter was hovering and blowing a virtual snowstorm around me and the subject, and that’s when my D700 failed. First time ever.

I got an FEE error message, which means that the camera stopped communicating with the aperture ring. I was suddenly unable to use any of my D-series prime lenses, which make up 80% of my glass. I’m thinking that water seeped in underneath the aperture ring on the body, which is odd, because the D700 is supposed to be weather sealed.

Outventure-Fall-1742Without hesitation, I pulled out the Fuji and shot the entire rest of the job with the X-T1. Nearly 10,000 images. I even got it wet while shooting a “pouring rain” setup where we were spraying water over the entire scene, including me, and it kept working without a hitch. I did my best to protect if from the water and dried it off between each run, but it didn’t fail. (The X-T1 body is built with 80 points of weather sealing.)

I shot by looking through the EVF 90% of the time, but the tilt screen proved incredibly useful for a number of the low and high angle setups, and the Continuous 8 fps was perfect for shooting the action scenes, as well as capturing quickly changing expressions on the lifestyle and portraits.

For some shots, I triggered off-camera flashes and a battery powered strobe using a PocketWizard in the hot shoe, and it worked perfectly. I used facial recognition focus for some scenes and shot quite a few of the scenes in manual mode, making quick, on-the-spot exposure adjustments with the aperture rings on the Fuji XF lenses.

Danladder

Overall, the X-T1 performed like a true, job-saving champion during the entire week and I’m incredibly happy with the photos. I shot everything in RAW and the only limitation I found was when using slower memory cards during extended bursts of 8 fps. I’ve got a 240MB/S card, which never slowed down. My older 30 and 45 MB/S cards ran into buffer clogs and sometimes took up to a minute to write a fast 8 fps series, but this has nothing to do with the camera, it just means I need to get some faster cards.

The X-T1 is designed to take advantage of the new UHS-II format SD memory cards, like the SanDisk Extreme Pro 280 MB/S card, which is now shipping. For still subjects and short bursts, slower cards work ok, but when you’re running frame after frame in CH mode, the new faster cards are essential. Even the SanDisk Extreme Pro UHS-I 95 MB/S card would have made a big difference over my older cards.

For lenses, I made heavy use of the XF 14mm f/2.8, the XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 and the awesome new XF 56mm f/1.2 short telephoto portrait lens. All three performed flawlessly and the combination covered all my bases.

The art director and few people on the production team were very impressed with how nimble I was with my lightweight camera setup, which definitely helped keep things moving during a very tight shooting schedule. We planned 5 days to shoot everything, and got it all done in 4. Producers like this, because on a big production like this, one day can save thousands of dollars.

Most importantly, the clients are extremely happy with not only my imagery, but how fast and adaptable I was with my gear. Hopefully this means I’ll get the call again.

To me, all of this reaffirms even more that the Fuji X-T1 is indeed a professional grade camera capable of shooting a top outdoor, action and adventure photography assignment, because that’s exactly what I did with it during the past week.

Even after putting it to extensive use during the past two months, this was the was the first really big job that I’ve shot with the X-T1. I feel as if I’ve gotten to know that camera even better now and am even more confident with how well it performs in all situations. If you haven’t seen my full review of the X-T1, you can find it here.

Support this site: The Fuji X-T1 is shipping now and you can show your appreciation for the time and effort that it takes me to compile and write all of my articles and reviews by purchasing through the links below. It won’t cost you anything extra and it helps keep this site running. Thanks so much!

Order the Fujifilm X-T1 for only $1,299 (body only) at B&H PhotoAmazon or Adorama

Order the Fujifilm X-T1 with 18-55mm lens for only $1,699 at B&H PhotoAmazon or Adorama

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April 21, 2014
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The Fuji X-T1 as a Pro Action Assignment Camera

Lighroom Mobile

Last night, Adobe rolled out Lightroom version 5.4, which finally includes RAW support for the new Fujifilm X-T1 camera. They also announced a brand new tablet app called Lightroom Mobile, which now brings Lightroom’s essential tools to the iPad.

Available only to Creative Cloud subscribers, Lightroom Mobile lets you export a collection of photos over the cloud, allowing you to edit, rate, and organize images on your iPad and then seamlessly sync the changes back to your desktop. The app takes advantage of Lightroom 5’s Smart Preview feature, which allows you cut down on file size in a big way. Even if you import a huge number of image files, they won’t bog down your iPad.

In order to activate Lightroom Mobile after you download the free app, you simply sign into your Creative Cloud account right in your desktop version of Lightroom. A small row of boxes will then appear just to the left of all your Collections. Check a box, sign into Lightroom Mobile on your iPad, and the photos will suddenly appear on your device.

Once they’re on your iPad, you can preview, make adjustments, crop, edit, share, pick, flag, etc… When you sync back to your desktop, all of the edits you made on your iPad are reflected in your master image library.

Lightroom Mobile is definitely a game changer and will be a huge workflow aid to photographers of any genre. Edit photos while you’re traveling. Have your assistant edit photos on the iPad while you’re doing other stuff on your main computer. Download shots from an assignment or portrait shoot (providing you have wi-fi) and preview images with your client.

If you already have Adobe Creative Cloud ($9.99 per month), Lightroom v. 5.4 will show up in your CC control panel. If you’re not a CC subscriber, you can update your standalone version of Lightroom, so you can at least import and work on your X-T1 RAW files, you just won’t be able to use the mobile app. Kind of makes the CC seem like a much better deal, doesn’t it?

Here’s a really great preview of Lightroom Mobile on the FStoppers Website. I’ll post my own thoughts in a few days when I’ve had a chance to play around with it. LRoverview-1

April 8, 2014
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Lightroom 5.4 Adds Fuji X-T1 Support and an iPad app

Clarity CoverThe latest issue of CLARITY: Photography Beyond The Camera has just been released and is ready for download.

If you haven’t seen CLARITY yet, it’s a very well done PDF magazine that’s written from the perspective that photography isn’t just your hobby, it’s your lifestyle. Shooting photos isn’t just something you do in your spare time, it’s some that consumes your passions and plays a huge part in how you live your life.

Topics covered in CLARITY revolve around creativity, deeper ideas behind image making, technical aspects of shooting, post processing and backup, and how to extend your photography passion into greater things and use it to make a positive impact on the world and on your own life.

The 3rd quarterly issue of CLARITY features 82 pages, 5 and tutorial videos and great articles by authors such as Kevin Kuboda, Piet Van den Eynde, Sean McCormack and Chris Corradino. Here are some of the topics included in this issue:

  • Lighting Essentials: How to find, shape, and bend natural light on location.
  • How to translate compositional elements into evocative photographs.
  • Exploring increased creative possibilities of shooting black & white.
  • How to keep your photos (and files) safe and accessible for the long-term.
  • Why being a mentor profoundly impacts others, including the longevity of the craft.
  • Using Lightroom to help you decide which gear to take on your next trip.
  • 14 secrets of great photography.
  • How you and your photography can change the world by providing creative opportunities and education. An interview with Cate Cameron, founder of Cameras 4 Change.
  • How to create artistic photographs of water.
  • How to “fix” your photos when your vision and results just don’t seem to line up.

I’m a huge fan of PDF publications and what I like about CLARITY is that the editors truly understand that we don’t just take pictures, we live, eat, breathe and sleep photography. It’s what we think about when we’re not out shooting and tweeting about photography. It’s what drives us and ignites our passions and it’s how we identify ourselves, not matter what our experiences is.

Published bi-monthly, CLARITY: Photography Beyond The Camera is readable on just about any device and it’s available as a single issue or as a subscription. The subscription ends up being 5 bucks an issue, which means you’re getting an entire year of inspiration and education for the cost of one lunch out.

You can download CLARITY: Volume 3 here. You can also get the other two back issues as well. Claritysamples

April 1, 2014
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CLARITY, Photography Beyond the Camera Volume 3

_DSF2178I love flying in Alaska in springtime. The first few weeks following the Spring Equinox usually bring clear weather to the Anchorage area, warmer temperatures and great warm light that hits the still snow covered peaks of the Chugach Mountains between 8-9 PM. For these reasons, spring is my favorite time for aerial photography; there’s nothing quite like chasing alpenglow in my little Cessna 120.

I live pretty close to Merrill field, so if it’s late afternoon, and the skies are clear, I can head down to the airport around 6PM, preheat the engine with an MSR stove and a piece of aluminum duct that acts as a stovepipe, and run through my preflight while the plane warms up.

This involves wrangling with the wing covers, shoveling out my spot if there’s fresh show, checking the oil, checking to see how much gas I have and making sure that all the main parts of the plane are in working order. It’s 67 years old this month, and although I have it inspected every year, anything that was made in 1947 is prone to having little things go wrong. In the spring, this entire process takes between 45 minutes to an hour between lighting the stove and actually getting into the air.

AVI-N3102N-00409Dan Bailey tying down his 1947 Cessna 120, Merrill Field, Alaska

When everything is ready and I’ve determined that the engine is warm enough to start, I undo the wing tie-downs, hop in and crank the 85 hp four-cylinder Continential motor to life. It’s not much different than the Type 4, 80 hp engines that came standard in Volkswagons and the Porche 914 during the 60s and 70s. The main difference is that instead of driving the wheels, my engine drives the propellor.

After takeoff, I usually start my climb and head straight east towards the Chugach Mountians. I try to aim for around 7,500-8,500 feet, which gives me a great vantage point looking across and down at the higher peaks of the front range and the glaciers that spread out behind them. By this time, the light is just starting to get good, so I get my camera out, slow the plane down to about 70-80 mph and open the window.

Camera Gear

I’ve tried a few different camera for aerial photography. During the past couple of years, I’ve been using the Fujifilm X10 and X20, which both worked extremely well for this purpose. The 28-112mm zoom lens metal dials and small size make these very easy camera to operate while I’m flying.

I’ve also used the Fuji X-E1 with the 18-55mm lens, and while the quality is excellent, way better than the X20, there were a few small things that gave me trouble. I kept hitting the D-Pad buttons on the back of the camera. Remember, I’m mostly concentrating on flying, so if I accidentally change a setting, I may not notice. Also, with the open window at 8,000 feet, it’s pretty cold, so I’m always wearing gloves. Also, while the XF 18-55mm lens is very sharp, the zoom creeps a little too easily when I’m shooting one handed in the open air.

X-T1cNow I’m using the new 16MP Fujifilm X-T1. It offers way better resolution and clarity over the X20. I’m shooting many of the same mountains that I did last year, and I’m blow away by how much sharper the X-T1 images are. Mostly, I’m just shooting straight JPEGs with the Velvia film simulation setting.

Also, the smaller D-pad buttons are much harder to inadvertently press when I don’t mean to. I’m shooting lots the same mountains. So, while some people are complaining about those D-pad buttons being a little too small compared to the X-E2, they actually work in my favor, and not just when I’m flying. I’d rather have smaller buttons than accidentally hit them all the time. Also, the dials on the X-T1 are a little stiffer, and it’s nice to have a dedicated ISO dial. This lets me bump up when the light starts to dim without having to go into the camera menu. In fact, I don’t do anything in the menu while shooting aerials.

For aerial glass, I’m using two primes, the XF 27mm f/2.8 lens and the XF 56mm f/1.2 lens. The 27mm gives me a slightly wider view, but not too wide that I have to worry about getting the wing strut in the pictures, while the 56mm gives me a nice, slightly compressed telephoto view for shooting details and more distant peaks.

Both lenses are easy to handle, unbelievably sharp (especially the 56!) and fast enough that in the fading sunset light, I can still shoot at very fast shutter speeds to ensure sharpness while flying along in a vibrating metal box that’s moving at 80 mph.

Perhaps more importantly, though, I prefer the mirrorless cameras over DSLRs because they’re smaller, lighter and easier to handle with one hand in the small cockpit. Also, I don’t like looking through the a camera viewfinder when I’m flying the plane, that’s just too much distraction which takes my eyes completely off of what’s going on with the airplane. It’s a safety issue.

If I’m shooting while looking at the LCD screen on a mirrorless camera, I’m not hiding my eye in the viewfinder. I can shoot and still see what I need to see while I’m flying. Keep in mind, though, that my little Cessna doesn’t go very fast. Whenever I’m photographing at this altitude, I’m still far enough away and high enough above any terrain that I’d have plenty of time to react if anything happened. My own rule is that if I want to shoot close to the ground, I’ll bring a pilot friend with me and have him fly the plane while I concentrate on taking pictures.

_DSF2026It’s amazing to be up there by myself, above these incredible landscapes while watching the light change Over the course of about an hour, it goes from strong, defined rays that are only starting to show the slightest hint of warmth in front of deep blue shadows, then starts to turn a soft, reddish yellow orange hue before finally transforming to the full-on pink of alpenglow of last light.

I spend the hour looking for interesting formations that catch my eye as I weave over valleys, circle over cool looking spires and chase colors over the immense glaciated peaks of the Chugach. My excitement always intensifies with the light and (hopefully!) culminates with amazing displays it all starts to fade into the soft light of evening.

_DSF2058

This is when I close the window, turn the plane around and head for home, satisfied with another aerial adventure. In some ways, it’s just as much fun to fly over the mountains after the sun has set, there’s something really cool about that.

I know that not all of my photos will be sharp, some will have the strut in them, some will be crooked, and some will just be poorly composed, but that’s all part of it. I always hope that I’ll get at least one or two really good photos, if not more. The photos in this batch are from a single flight that I did last week. When you look at them, try to imagine the feeling of true adventure that you get while flying in a tiny two seater above all this stuff and then landing on the runway during the dimming light of twilight over Anchorage.

_DSF2102_DSF2119_DSF2134_DSF2148_DSF2162-2_DSF2190_DSF2192

You can check out some of my other aerial photography posts here.

March 31, 2014
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Springtime Aerial Photography in Alaska

Fuji-X-T1-PDN-AdaI’m super psyched to have my photo used in the very first Fujifilm USA magazine ad featuring the new X-T1 camera. It appears in the March 2014 issue of Photo District News. I shot this image in early December in Anchorage, Alaska.

I was brought in to test an early prototype version of the X-T1, and was the first US photographer to get the camera as soon as it was announced last month. Since then, I’ve put it through a tremendous amount of use and abuse and have shot a wide variety of pro work with the camera. I feel like the X-T1 was deigned especially for me and my style of photography, which is why I’m so excited to see this ad in print. You can read my full review and field test of of the X-T1 here.

Fujifilm has been a client of mine for a very long time. Back in my pre-digital days, I shot exclusively with Fuij film, mostly Velvia, Provia and Astia, and they first started using my images for marketing and trade show prints around 2001. See more of my recent publications and tear sheets here.

You can get more info about the Fuij X-T1 here.

 

 

March 21, 2014
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My Photo in The Very First Fuji X-T1 Magazine Ad

Fuji 27mm lens

Of all the Fuji XF lenses that I’ve used, (14mm, 27mm, 18-55mm, 56mm, 60mm and 55-200mm) one of my sleeper favorites is the XF 27mm f/2.8 pancake. Why? Simple. It’s tiny.

I don’t usually get excited about this focal length. 27mm equates to 41mm when compared to full frame, which is about the same angle of view as the human eye. I don’t have any lenses in that range for my DSLR, it’s generally not wide enough to be wide, and it’s almost too wide to be considered “normal.” Essentially, it falls right in line between 35mm and 50mm, which I know are the ranges that street photographers and photojournalists love.

However, put this little gem on the front end of an X-T1, X-Pro1 or one of the X-E bodies, and you suddenly have a pro quality camera that almost fits in your pocket. With the 27mm, these interchangeable X cameras are about the same size as the X100 and they hardly weigh anything. Here it is on an X-E1, and you can see that it’s really not much bigger than the X20.

(With the current instant rebates, the XF27mm f/2.8 lens $50 off right now. Many of the other X Series bodies and lenses are also on sale.)

XE1w27mm

Around your neck, an X body with the 27mm lens hardly feels like you’re carrying anything at all. In fact, with this combination, my new camera bag is actually the camera strap. I’ll walk/hike/bike/ski with this setup slung around shoulder and not even know it’s there. Yet, when I see something I want to shoot, I’ve instantly got full functionality and quality of an X-Trans sensor camera.

You see, the only thing I love more than a good prime lens is a compact prime, and the XF 27mm is about as compact as you can get. Of course, small doesn’t mean anything it the glass isn’t good, and that’s where this little thing shines.

Often times, you find that small lenses like this just aren’t up to the task, but the 27mm f/2.8 is actually a very good lens. It produces exceptionally sharp images, it’s fast, and compared to some of the other XF lenses, it’s performs much better in the AF department.

Construction seems pretty good on this lens, although there’s not much there, just 7 lens elements in 5 groups, (including 1 aspherical element), a high torque coreless AF motor and enough metal to hold it all in place. The 27mm does NOT have an aperture ring, or a lens hood. I usually like to have those things on my lenses, but in this case, I’ll gladly trade them for something this small. However, it does have a manual focus ring that’s very solid and tight. No rattle or looseness at all. I’ve actually used MF on this lens quite a bit for night photography when it’s simply to dark for the AF to grab anything.

Autofocus

Autofocus has been a mixed bag for the Fuji X lenses. Having tried quite a few of them, I can say that AF performance depends largely on the lens. Some are better than others, and in fact, the 27mm f/2.8 just might be the fastest and best performer in the entire lineup.

It’s WAY faster than the 35mm, which chugs and hunts sometimes. By comparison, the 27mm locks onto the subject with almost no hesitation, even in low light, where is where these lenses usually fall short. I’m actually quite impressed with how well it focuses in the dark. In my highly scientific tests standing inside my closet, the 27mm on my X-T1 actually wins out agains the D7100 with the 24-85mm lens. In the revered closet test, the 27mm is even faster than the super 56mm f/1.2, which proves that maximum aperture of the lens isn’t the sole determining factor.

I haven’t tried the XF 18mm, but from everything I’ve heard, the 27mm runs AF circles around that one too with regards to AF. It also focuses faster than the XF 18-55 and the 55-200, and it completely puts the 60mm to shame with how fast it focuses.

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Image Quality

So how do the images look? I’ve shot with the 27mm on the X-T1 for six weeks now, and I have to say, I’ve been really impressed. Colors look awesome and I’m honestly surprised at how crisp photos look when you crop to 100%. In addition, it produces pretty good bokeh in the background, which always looks nice for portraits. Even in super bright light, there’s a good compromise between subject sharpness and background blur.

Portrait shot at Minus 10 F

Some portrait shooters won’t touch anything with f/2 or greater, but shooting at f/2.8 has advantages over f/1.4, namely that you get more than just the eyelashes in focus. This photo below was actually shot at f/7.1 and it still holds up with a nice soft background. Plus, it’s REALLY sharp.

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The next three photos are reprinted from my Fuji X-T1 Full Size Image Examples post that I wrote last month. A few of those shots were made with the 27mm, so I’m highlighting them again here so you don’t have to go back and forth if you don’t want to. Each of these link to the full size JPEGs that are sitting in my Dropbox folder. Click on them and you see them at full resolution.

Airplane Wing

Even shot out the thin plastic window, this one has a huge amount of crisp detail and sharpness holds up extremely well out towards the edges. Check the wingtip and the mountains in the opposite corner. Click for full size.

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Reykjavik Lights Hotel

Shot under strong morning light in crisp winter air this one is also extremely sharp. Even the most ardent pixel peepers should be impressed at how well the little 27mm resolves edge detail.  This one is probably a really good example of maximum real-life sharpness. ISO 200, 1/600 sec shutter speed and f/5. Many lenses are sharpest between f/5.6 and f/8, so f/5 is just about up in that range. Click for full size.

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Northern Lights

This one was shot on a tripod with a 3.2 second exposure, wide open at f/2.8. Click to see full size. Note, the full size version is the JPEG, which has been brightened up a little bit in Lightroom. I also shot this in RAW, and so the version below is the converted version from that file. You can see how much more detail I was able to bring out as opposed to the JPEG.

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Overall

At the beginning of this post, I called the 27mm f/2.8 pancake lens my “sleeper favorite.” What this means is that while it’s not my favorite XF lens, (that medal goes to the XF 14mm f/2.8 ultra wide angle, with silver to the XF 56mm f/1.2 ultra fast portrait lens), it’s the lens that I ended up liking WAY more than I thought I would.

As I said, a 41mm angle of view doesn’t usually do it for me, but a 41mm lens that only weighs 2.75 oz? (78 grams) Now THAT’S something I can get excited about. Weight wins out here and it has made me love this little lens. The 27mm f/2.8 has become my go-to lens for unobtrusive, inconspicuous travel, around town shooting, bike trips and ultra long rides where I only want to take a single lens, and other situations where I want quality, but also want minimalism.

The Fuji XF 27mm f/2.8 pancake fits that bill and still gives me really impressive results. It’s a highly versatile lens that also fits in my creative methodology of shooting with primes and adapting to a single focal length. In addition, since it’s so small and simple, it has a very high FUN FACTOR. I’ve made the 27mm work for me in a wide variety of shooting situations, including portraits, landscapes, street, travel and yes, even some action.

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I’d recommend this lens to any Fuji X photographer who likes the idea of going really lightweight and making their X body setup as compact as possible. If you want to go all X100 style with your X-Pro1, X-E2 or X-T1, then this is the one lens you should get. It’s much smaller and a way better AF performer than the 35mm f/1.4.

Compared to the XF 18mm f/2, the 27mm is said to be a little bit shaper, especially at the edge, and it’s half the weight. I haven’t tried the XF18mm, but I seriously considered it since I like wide angle lenses. Again, size and weight won out, and now that I have the 27, I know that I made the right choice. I already have the XF 14mm, and it’s really not that heavy either, so for me, the 18 would be a little too close to that focal length.

However, if you don’t have the 14 and you think you’d like a wide angle prime over one that’s closer to a nifty fifty prime, then the XF 18mm f/2 might actually be a good choice for you. AF speed won’t be as good and it won’t be quite as small, but it does come with a hood and an aperture ring.

Support this site: If you decide to pull the trigger on this lens or on any piece of gear, please consider purchasing through these links. It’s a way that you can show your appreciation for the time and effort that it takes me to compile and write these reviews, and it won’t cost you anything extra. It’s like a virtual pat on the back. Thanks so much!

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Link for my UK readers:

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March 18, 2014
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Review of the Fuji XF 27mm Pancake Lens

_DSF9142-2Having shot extensively with the Fujifilm X-T1 for six weeks now, I feel as if I’m dishing out the exact kind of use and abuse that Fuji had in mind when they designed this camera. Since returning from Iceland, where I shot a variety of landscapes and action photos with the X-T1, I’ve photographed dog sledding, winter snow bike racing, landscapes, aerial photos, the northern lights, and I took it on a bitter cold winter bike tour along the Denali Highway, where the camera was covered in ice and frost for much of the time.

In all cases, the X-T1 has continued to perform with flying colors. I have not experienced a single hitch with the camera, and I can say with full authority, especially after using the X-E1 and X-E2, that the new X-T1 has far exceeded my expectations. I would not hesitate to use it for pro work, and in fact plan to use it on assignment later this week.

Last month, I wrote a detailed post about how well the X-T1’s autofocus tracking system works. Today we look at a few more examples. As a longtime DSLR user who makes my living getting right in middle of the action and shooting things that move rather quickly, I was very curious to see just how well the X-T1 would stack up against the kind of performance that I’m accustomed to with my Nikons.

In order to do this test, I took the X-T1 out to photograph dog sled racing here in Anchorage, Alaska. I’ve shot these yearly sprint races numerous times with my DSLRs, so I figured this would be a very good benchmark.

Sprint dog racing isn’t especially hard to shoot, but the perfect subject to test your camera’s AF system. The dogs run at around 20 mph, either directly towards or away from you, and with 14-16 canine heads constantly bobbing up and down, there’s a lot for your AF sensors to grab (and miss). Usually, I try to grab either the lead dogs, one of the middle dogs, or the musher himself and see how well it tracks.

 

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As it turns out, with its new software motion prediction algorithms and higher buffer, the X-T1 did exceptionally well. Selecting my initial AF point, I was always able to lock onto whatever part of the frame I initially chose. Sometimes in the chaos of the action, the X-T1 was able to follow the same dog through the entire series, while other times, the sensors picked up another dog in the pack. Sometimes it lost a dog for a frame or two before locking right back on, but you know what? I pretty much get same thing when shooting with my Nikons.

 

My DSRL setup might perform a little better, but to be fair, I’m usually using a $1,500-2,000 f/2.8 or f/4 AF-S VR zoom lens. With the X-T1, I’m using the XF 55-200mm f/3.5-4.8. While this Fuji zoom is a very good lens, it’s not the same caliber glass as the Nikon lenses that cost three to four times as much. I know that Fuji has a couple of higher performing zooms in the works, according to their lens roadmap, so I’ll be very curious to see how well those do with the X-T1.

 

All of these images were shot in CH (8 fps) and AF-C mode as straight JPEGs with no EV compensation. Normally, I would set the EV to +1 stop or so to brighten things up in the white snow and overcast environment, but here I wanted to shoot straight and see how the  X-T1 would handle this kind of situation. They’re a little dark, but you’d get that from any camera.

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Combined with its rugged, high abuse-worthy, all-metal body and the host of features Fuji packed into this little gem, I continue be inspired and impressed with the X-T1. It’s an unbelievably powerful little camera that fits in your hands and doesn’t hold you back at all, and this from a 20+ year DSLR shooter. Years ago, I had resigned myself to forever having to carry a bag of heavy gear in order to get pro quality action/adventure shots. No more. I’m seeing my photography paradigm transform before my very eyes, and it’s quite exciting. I feel like I’m walking into a whole new world.

Check out my X-T1 full review and field test. It’s a very detailed post with lots of information and more full size image samples. You can also preorder the camera at B&H PhotoAdorama or Amazon. It’s slated to ship any day now. Also, you can save up to $250 on the Fuji XF lenses. This special deal ends March 22. Please consider purchasing through these links. It’s your way of giving me a free nod for writing these reviews. Thanks!

Preorder the Fujifilm X-T1 for only $1,299 (body only) at B&H Photo or Amazon

Preorder the Fujifilm X-T1 with 18-55mm lens for only $1,699 at B&H Photo or Amazon

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March 17, 2014
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More Fuji X-T1 AF Predictive AF Tracking Tests